2.0 8V bottom end rebuild (by idiots)

[eyesoreracing]

Sometimes if you turn the fan to Auto, it would turn off and was hard to turn back on again. Partially this was the damaged knob, but partially it was this missing stopper that allowed the knob to go past Auto to no-mans land where the contacts didn't tell the system anything.



But what''s that blurry little white thing in the lower right corner? Its the missing stopper!



Superglue to the rescue!

That was what, failure mode #4? NO! 5! I can't even count this high...

[eyesoreracing]

6th and most idiotic failure mode:

I expected all the fialure to be under the dash, so I raised the suspension and drove the car up onto some ramps to make it easier to work down there. First thing you have to do is remove the kick panel, which holds the parking brake cable. If you've heard this story before, its because another of our co-idiots worked here in his sloped driveway and inadvertently released the parking brake, letting the car roll backwards across the street and into a brick wall, which it knocked over. He almost ran over himself in the process.

I forgot all about this, worked in the same spot, walked into my garage to get a socket and heard movement outside. Looked back just in time to see the XM run into the front of my Hayabusa-powered Miata.

Never work under the dash without wheel chocks.



Deepened a existing dent in the Miata, removed a bit of paint from both cars. Ripped a hole in my car cover. Reinforced the accuracy of this thread's title...

[Dieselman]

The servo moved when the newly fixed temperature knob is turned. But it was out of position when I tried re-installing it with everything set to the full cold position. I forced it into position, skipping some teeth as I did so. Seems it was overactuating in the past (I heard strange noises from exacly this location) and perhaps stripped some gear teeth.

Now, when I turn the knob to full cold, I can hear it clicking, as it tries to go colder than possible. If I back off the knob just one click, it stops making noise.


This is the servo if you happen to know of any crossover applications we might be able to find in California.

That's two failure modes...

Take the servo unit back out and split in two by undoing the screws.
The output gear and rheostat drive gear have synchronising dots which need aligning.

P/no is 6447 64

The temperature selection control wiper should be held in place by the centre pip being pushed in and causing the grips to splay outwards. It looks like one grip is broken off.

Good to hear the temperature and A/c is now functioning and no-one was harmed in the making of these pictures...

[eyesoreracing]

Too late for this servo. Lots of missing teeth. I'm guessing some of the teeth stripped when we heard gerbil noises under the dash, as the servo kept trying to go somewhere impossible. I may have stripped some more forcing it into position.

Thank you for the part number. Looks like there was one on eBay here back in april, but nothing available now, so far.

Seems the same as a Saab 9-5 servo, which doesn't help much. and similar to a Range Rover, but maybe not identical.



For now, AC is blowing cold, and we can adjust fan speed and vent position for the first time!

[eyesoreracing]

I'm just gonna leave this here:

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/i ... t/1030209/



This is a repair kit with with the two gears we stripped! Intended for a Saab 9-5, but looks the same.

Of course, it is prohibitively expensive to ship anything to the US now, so we're cut off from the world and may have to try 3D printing gears instead.

[Dieselman]

Nice find. Thanks.

You might be able to remake the gear teeth on yours by making a mold of the good teeth then drilling some small wires into the broken part, to act as as reinforcement, then by re-aligning your mold, cast some new teeth in epoxy, or molten plastic.

[bump_drft]

This may also be of help to someone
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7085213

Problem is the big gear with the spline isn't included, and we need that.

[Dieselman]

For the large gear you might be able to make yours work.
Either make a new tooth as previously mentioned, or you might have noticed the splined shaft is a double square with one pip removed as an indexer.

If you cut off the opposite spline, re-mark the synchronising arrow 180 degrees round the gear, you could invert the gear. It only drives approx 90 degrees, so doesn't need all the teeth.

[Dieselman]

This may help with vehicles to source from.
Someone really meant business here...



See https://www.toujoursplus.info/montage_e ... on_en.html

"According to my research, my gears should fit into the following cars:
--- Peugeot 405: ref 644758 = valeo 509221 = C26 838 158J = C22 003252 Q = 61.55.002 (hot & cold air mixing), ref 6447A5 = valeo 509222 (air recirculation)
--- Peugeot 406: ref 6447A5 = valeo 509222 = F656692K/U = 1.61.055.22901 = 1.61.055.22902 = C31656692K = 6155029
--- Peugeot 605, Peugeot 406 and Citroen XM: ref 644764 = valeo 509226 = C23 828 105 TJ = 16105500806 = C23 828105 T = 61.55.008
--- Peugeot 406 (2 wires version), Citroën Xsara (rare): ref 6447V1 = valeo 509225 = F654294A/U / 01.61.055.02203 = C31 654 294 AJ / 16105502201 = C31 654 294 AS / 16105502202
--- Citroen Saxo, Peugeot 106 and Citroen AX: ref 6445G4 = valeo 509219 = F656692K/U
--- Renault Megane, Renault Scenic, Renault 19, Renault Master, Renault Kangoo II (?): ref 7702163822 = valeo 509229 = F833812R/U = 1.61.055.21001, ref 7701043663
--- Renault 21: ref 7701033462 = valeo 509230, ref 7701034351 = valeo 509231 (5 wires), ref 7701034352 = valeo 509232 (2 wires) = 1.61.055.00903 = F828326L/U
--- Renault Master, Renault Trafic, Opel Movano, Vauxhall Movano: ref 7701033462 (?) = valeo 509230 (?)
--- Renault Safrane (air recirculation): ref a30251272s = 61.55.007
--- Renault Mascott
--- Land Rover Range Rover II: ref STC3259 = valeo 509657
--- Range Rover P38 (HEVAC system)
--- Saab 9-5: ref 5334719, ref 5045711 = 16105502701 = 16105502703, ref 1030209
--- Alpine A610"