Dollywobbler's 1995 S2 2.1 TD SX Manual

[dollywobbler]

Got the towing electrics fixed, just in time for this exciting journey!


Can't believe how good those winter tyres are. Did a three-point turn right there, no wheelspin! It's a mix of snow and hail that froze overnight.

After those heroics, she deserved a wash.


Drier weather means the sunroof leak isn't an issue, though I have now got a replacement cassette lined up. Wire wiggling seems to have cured the overheat warning issue too. In other words, good times!

Remaining on the To Do list are cambelt change (hopefully soon) and possibly new spheres (the back end is getting rather bouncy at times). Had to bleed the brakes recently after hitting the middle pedal before it had fully pressurised. It didn't like that!

[Dieselman]

I would be surprised if pressing the brake pedal introduced air into the system, maybe you have a ruptured rear sphere.

As far as winter tyres goes, the main reason they work better is they have 2mm more tread. XM are good in snow on standard rubber.

[robert_e_smart]

I have never heard that before. And wouldn't count when they are worn a bit. The main reason they work is their tread patterns and didn't rubber compound that doesn't harden like Sumner tyres below 7C.

[Dieselman]

Ah, the mythical 7-c figure bandied about by internet forums. Continental said 2-c for winter tyres.

Given that tyres heat up pretty quickly in use, I think getting them above 10c really wouldn't take long. Obviously the tread pattern, with more blocks and sipes will help, but I measured Michelin summer and Winter tyres last w/e when getting some new tyres fitted. In Germany, they ditch (possibly a legal function) winter tyres, once worn down to 4mm, as they are no longer performing properly.

[dollywobbler]

Exactly Robert. It's not just tread, but compound too. Here in Wales, where we do get proper snow, summer tyres really just don't cut it. I discovered this a few years back with my BX (also good in snow) when I got very stuck. There was so much snow that I had to keep stopping to kick snow out of the wheelarches. It'd pack in sufficiently to stop suspension movement! There was no chance I was getting up a hill in those conditions, whereas the XM with winter tyres was no problem on gradients, even towing a trailer. I look forward to seeing how they cope once they've worn a fair bit, but I also have experience of them on our community minibuses, where they make a huge difference too. There's nothing mythical about it!

As for the brakes, I'm just reporting what happened. I hit the brake pedal before the car had risen fully and the middle pedal did nothing at all. Worryingly, I then had a properly long delay before the pedal did anything, which continued for a few miles. It did seem to get better, but bleeding it I did see a few bubbles at the rear. Very pleased that all of the nipples were free moving though.

[White Exec]

XM are good in snow on standard rubber.

Can confirm that, after a lengthy spell in deep snow in the Cairngorms several years ago - on standard Michelin Primacy's. No doubt the hefty 2.5 lump over the driving wheels helped, but I'm sure the 2.1 would have been likewise.

Dolly...
If yours is Polar White, interesting how it looks quite a stark white in normal conditions, but put it on snow, and it comes across as something like Old English White!

[Dieselman]

If yours is Polar White, interesting how it looks quite a stark white in normal conditions, but put it on snow, and it comes across as something like Old English White!

I suspect dirt play a part in that.

When I had a white Volvo, a customer remarked it was a nice colour...brown...

[dollywobbler]

FINALLY got around to sunroof fixing.


Travelled over to Messerschmitt Owner. Plan was to replace the entire assembly with a good second-hand one. Sadly, the new assembly was all seized up and wouldn't operate. So, we were forced into Plan B - remove the glass/frame from the new assembly and fit it to my good assembly. Took a while, we learnt a lot but got there in the end!

The glass is sitting a bit low at the rear, so we just adjusted it up on the switch. I'll reset this when I get chance. The car is now away awaiting cambelt replacement (busy day). The headliner is drying in my garage awaiting refitment. I've had to reglue the cloth on the leading edge.

The reason for the water ingress is VERY apparent!


No wonder the sunroof was leaking. As some will already know, the frame rusts which pushes out the rubber seal and allows water in. It also destroys the bonding between frame and glass.

It'll be a while before I can say whether the car is leak free - I won't be putting the headliner back in until we've had a few downpours!

[Dean]

.......bit late now but to remove the glass from the sunroof is 6 screws and 5 minutes work, there is no need to take the whole thing out or were you Investigating? Good job anyway, I take it your still enjoying the xm experience.

D

[White Exec]

What a pity that frame wasn't stainless, or even plastic (the glass would have held it in shape).
Another lump for the "3-D Printing in-tray".