XM V6 Sei finally going for restoration

[dcz1643]

Love that spoiler!

It does look nice, I am getting more excited at the prospect of driving the car again, after parking it up 21 years ago

[citroenxm]

Thats a proper s1 y3 spoiler great aren't they . Not sure why it was changed for S2 y4..

[dcz1643]

or this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-12355223 ... B00BHIWGBA

You can find a cross reference here with LOTS of cars/numbers to choose from :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334518927177 ... 1&mkcid=28

Hi, can I just double check before I order the Dizzy Cap from Amazon (Bosch 1235522388 Distributor Cap) that it does fit the XM. From the previous posts, I am pretty sure it does but of course Amazon keeps flagging up that it does not fit my car. It seems like a very reasonable price if it is the right one (compared to others advertised)...Cheers Derek

[citroenxm]

In the cross ref list citroen peugeot and reno are all in it..

Yes it will fit

[dcz1643]

In the cross ref list citroen peugeot and reno are all in it..

Yes it will fit

Thank you for this, I will get one ordered at that price

[dcz1643]

Hi everyone, here is todays update on the V6, some good news, some bad. Peter has sorted the injectors with the injector service kit and has fitted the new Dizzy cap.

He reports that the engine is running lovely now and the gearbox is doing everything it should, so all good on that front. However, the car is losing suspension fluid in many places. It looks like the suspension will require a rebuild and Peter is not sure if he can do this, so real bad news.

Peter’s messages to me: “Hi Derek, the goods news is, the engine and transmission seem lovely, however the suspension and brake lines not so good. It's a job I won't be able to do unfortunately, it's a specialist job. There are many leaks from some joins and some bodge repairs which too are leaking. You'll have to have a look when you're down here soon.
It's up on the 2 poster which wasn't too difficult”

He went on to say: “It's more than just making the new lines Derek, it's accessing to remove the the old as the from and rear subframes are covering most of the lines at the front and rear. Some of the lines are coil type too. It looks like the rear subframe will definitely need dropping, however the subframe is fairly rusty along with the bolts.
What we need to do first is repair that one bad line by cutting out the rusty bit and having a new piece put in. I'm sure we can buy 3.5mm pipe, but the tool to flare is about £40 I believe and once we can sort this bad leak out, it will or possibly find the next leak, one we can't see yet as there isn't the pressure. We need pressure to see if she will lift on the suspension. But yes it is looking like a complete rebuild on the suspension and brakes which I think will be a few pennies
Might pay to use your forum again and see if any one has tackled this job.”

So my next question is, has anyone tackled the suspension, is it as hard as Peter thinks, if we have the right tools?

As always, thank you in anticipation of your great support. I will attach the pics he sent today.

[citroenxm]

Done loads of suspension.. I've a flaring tool also..

But I'm a away a bit from you.. in north Wales.

[Dieselman]

Dropping the rear subframe is really easy, there are two bolts at the front and two at the rear.
If the rear ones won't come out of the subframe mounting go into the boot and undo the four nuts down through the boot floor. The underside bolts do normally come out Ok.

If Peter doesn't want to change the pipe(s) block the suspension up using wooden blocks and take it to Pleaides in Sawtry or Bourne Citroen Centre. Having the car at ride height will make loading it onto a transporter much easier.
Block the front rams using 22" bits of wood between the ARB and underside of the strut tower, for the rears push bits of wood into the rear subframe cross-tube to block the trailing arm bump stop extensions.

The pipes under the car just before the rear subframe, are the most common to corrode and new rear sections can be spliced with new sections rather than drop the front subframe, however, lowering the front subframe is actually easy enough once the car is high enough to gain access. the bolts are front and rear and two support struts down each side, then it will lower.

I would't worry about the rest of the hydraulics components, certainly not until the pipework is sound.
Most likely the hydraulics will be in working order once the pipe isn't leaking.

Quite possibly the doseur (brake) valve will want a new rubber button for the end, which is an easy job: unbolt the doseur valve, prise out the retaining ring, pull out the rubber button, refit in reverse order. No need to disconnect any hydraulic pipes.

See attached iImages of the trailing arm bump stop extensions and their relative positions with the body at it's highest and lowest.

[dcz1643]

Dropping the rear subframe is really easy, there are two bolts at the front and two at the rear.
If the rear ones won't come out of the subframe mounting go into the boot and undo the four nuts down through the boot floor. The underside bolts do normally come out Ok.

If Peter doesn't want to change the pipe(s) block the suspension up using wooden blocks and take it to Pleaides in Sawtry or Bourne Citroen Centre. Having the car at ride height will make loading it onto a transporter much easier.
Block the front rams using 22" bits of wood between the ARB and underside of the strut tower, for the rears push bits of wood into the rear subframe cross-tube to block the trailing arm bump stop extensions.

The pipes under the car just before the rear subframe, are the most common to corrode and new rear sections can be spliced with new sections rather than drop the front subframe, however, lowering the front subframe is actually easy enough once the car is high enough to gain access. the bolts are front and rear and two support struts down each side, then it will lower.

I would't worry about the reast of the hydraulics components, certainly not until the pipework is sound.
Most likely the hydraulics will be in working order once the pipe isn't leaking.

Quite possibly the doseur (brake) valve will want a new rubber button for the end, which is an easy job: unbolt the doseur valve, prise out the retaining ring, pull out the rubber button, refit in reverse order. No need to disconnect any hydraulic pipes.

See attached iImages of the trailing arm bump stop extensions and their relative positions with the body at it's highest and lowest.

Thanks for your quick and comprehensive response. I am going to have a chat with Peter tomorrow, about the correct course of action and this is a great help. Cheers...Derek

[Dieselman]

Citjohn is in the process of repairing pipework to two Xm and has dropped both rear subframes, however the process is:

1. Remove road wheels and wheel-arch liners (optional, depending on whether working on a lift, or the floor)
2. Remove spare wheel carrier
3. Remove rear half of exhaust and the heat shield on the subframe.
4. Remove the right side fuel tank strap, replace the bolt back in to support the tank, remove the centre strap unclipping it from the height selector rod.
5. Remove the flag from the rear end of the height selector rod, noting it's position: Easily setup again afterwards, so not imperative to record this.
6. Unclip the hydraulic pipes a good length under the car body.
7. Support the subframe and undo the four bolts, pull rearwards to clear the fuel tank filler pipe, unclip the Abs sensor connectors and lower the subframe.

Access to the hydraulic pipes will now be very good.