Russ's 2.1 SED Auto now in Mandarin

[russ92xmsed]

Should have listened to that little voice... "do the sump with the engine out of the car."
But no... apparently I knew better!

[russ92xmsed]

I seem to be suffering from a dose of amnesia! Can someone please give me a tip on how to get the long driveshaft in.
For the life of me I cannot remember how I did it last time.
I should explain...it is in so far, but I cannot get the final inch or so in the gearbox and getting the bearing in the housing. I have tried clamps, hitting it, and it won't budge.

The smaller one went in no problem. So it's not a spline issue I think. I cannot see any differences from the manual and auto. All appears the same.

[MTXM]

Hi Russ,
You need to ensure the little losenge shaped studs on the ends of the bearing housing retaining screws are properly positioned that can create an obstruction! Presumably the shaft is properly aligned and the end settled into the box and do be careful not to damage the seal.
With regards,
Matthew T.

[russ92xmsed]

Hi Matthew,

Those little screw things are out the way. The seal is also new, so being very careful.
The end goes into the box and it appears the splines are engaged as it moves the gears a little...well as much as you can turn a driveshaft with your hands!

It just doesn't go all the way in... I need to tap it in, but can't.

[Dean]

Russ, make sure you clean the intermediate bearing housing with a wire cup brush or similar and grease it, get the shaft in as far as you can by hand then push inwards as hard as you can on the outer CV joint to compress the pre-load spring and hit the end with a rubber mallet severaltimes, it should slide in then. Dont forget you can use the two bearing retainer bolts as pullers to pull the bearing into the housing, pulling the driveshaft home that last 1/2" or so.

The sumps on the 4 cylinder engines are a right bugger, the oil pick-up is under the timing gear end, obviously, and the subframe is under the sump so even when you get it loose the damn thing is a right pain to get off without removing the pick-up or lifting the engine, The V6 one is easy, not because its steel but because it is missing a cylinder on the end so the subframe doesn't get in the way and you have all-round access to the sump.

You must be nearly done now Russ? i saw your post on Twitter of the car as she was and now, looked good, about time it was back in use!

D

[russ92xmsed]

So there is an advantage to a V6!!
Thanks Dean, didn't think of using the little nuts to pull it in. Obvious now. I think your advice about the spring might help too. I have cleaned it all up and greased it all. It's just the last bit really.
Unless and I would be surprised by this, the engine mount / bearing bracket is slightly different. All measuring has not shown anything odd so far.

It is nearly there. I have to do some rewiring so it will start. I think I have worked out which wires are the ones to sort out in the plug to the inhibitor switch.
Then it's fluids and start it.

There is one little issue that decided to join in, the passenger side brake caliper decided to ooze LHM. I think the seals have gone, so I have a new BigRed seal kit, just not done it yet.

Then before any MOT attempts there's a little bit.... I hope.... famous last words! ...of rust to have patched up.

It is getting there. I have at least working gears!

[Dean]

You would be surprised how much stuff is actually easier on the PRV6 compared to a XU10 series engine, the design of the subframe really is aimed just at the V engine and then minimal adaptions made for the 4 pots, causing issues like sump access problems!

There are certainly different types of rear lower mount, the TCT has a different one to the N/A engine but i do not think there is a difference between manual and auto, driveshafts are the same length i think too.

Sounds like it is close to completion, if you are anything like me there will be some niggles to iron out, hopefully no more than just niggles mind you!

Good luck Russ

D

[russ92xmsed]

Thanks Dean.

[russ92xmsed]

Not sure if the link will work, shall update with proper pics.

https://imgur.com/gallery/K3iUZG0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have found the issue of the driveshaft not wanting to go in properly. The engine mount bracket is wrong. D'oh!
I thought and having checked the two quite carefully, that using the auto one would be fine. However Citroen decided to make such a tiny difference, it makes the two incompatible.
The main intermediate bearing hole, is moved 5 mm out on the auto. Hence why it was pushing the driveshaft out.
That's easy to fix. I can just put the other mount on and that will work. The new issue is the lower engine mount. The rubber damper sits too high for the bracket that is bolted to a welded mount on the subframe. Ideally, it needs modifying.

But before that happens, is there a manual version of this bracket that bolts to the same place on the subframe? I.e. So it can just be bolted on.
Anyone with a series 1 manual 2.1 can you check please

Slight step backwards, but the issue has at least been identified. Next job is to get another new rubber bush pressed in. Fortunately I have one.

[russ92xmsed]

It's alive! After a year plus, it started. Bit of a hassle with the inhibitor circuits inhibiting... but a little mod later and we have a running XM.

Hydraulics and coolant now.