Citroen XM Forum

Dean wrote: And the cleaning and checks finished for the day, only one tappet broken so far, DO NOT BLOW THEM OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR, you will break the plastic retainer clip!
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OOps.

Normally a good soaking in diesel will free them up and if necessary, strip down and rub the sliding surfaces over fine wet & dry paper.

They all seam to be working fine, they just get old dirty oil trapped in them, they break because the piston is held in its sleeve and kept from over extending by a plastic collar, this collar it very small and unbelievably brittle, applying compressed air over pressurised it, snapped the collar and fired the tappet head out of the rocker, you just need to be patient and pull them out by hand, carefully prise the collar off with a fingernail and then pull the piston out.

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Here are some detailed photographs of the front subframe mount with essential dimensions Dean, although you may just want to check against YOG. The extra section of plate you mentioned is not for strength but to support the gearbox oil radiator cooler, which I assume your car also has? With regards, Matthew T.

Thank you Matthew that's very useful, much easier to fab and add on than I thought it would be.
Mine has neither the water to gear oil cooler, air to gear oil cooler or the engine oil cooler.

Thanks
Dean

Its a sorry sight, may have to go for second hand idler sprocket or buy a new bearing, im thinking the latter is the better option now

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Mine has neither the water to gear oil cooler or the engine oil cooler

I am pleased that the info is helpful Dean and presumably your 2.0i has a gearbox oil water cooler? The gearbox oil radiator and engine oil water cooler can be added without too much difficulty I guess, although the bracket will then be needed on the subframe. Regards, Matthew T.

The gear oil to water cooler/heater on this engine is junk, I have a new one somewhere and a good one on my 8v engine, not sure how much the engine oil cooler is required for my climate or type of use but I will play with this once running, I may be tempted to fit a thermostatic oil to air cooler for the engine depending on what oil temps im getting during use, would be nice to keep as much non required equipment and pipes out of the engine bay as possible tbh.

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Dean wrote:

PRV V6 NFP.PDF

Its a sorry sight, may have to go for second hand idler sprocket or buy a new bearing, im thinking the latter is the better option now

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Just get a local bearing stockist to press a new bearing in. For small jobs they don't normally charge any fitting charge.

Most of my cars had the engine oil coolers removed Dean as they do quite commonly fail, although I have reinstated where possible. I think the gearbox cooling is perhaps the more essential component. The PRV engine does run hot while the 24v has a engine oil temperature gauge and the oil rarely catches up with the water! Regards, Matthew T.

All auto gearboxes need a decent cooler by the nature of how the torque converter works. People forget that when the TC is either slipping or when the vehicle is stationery, the ATF has to dissipate some or all all the energy of the engine output.

A water to water cooler is best as it assists the gearbox to warm up quickly, but maintains a stable temperature thereafter. The best ones are blocks inserted into the radiator end cap.

Heat is what kills auto gearboxes.