xmexclusive wrote:Front suspension performance over sharp dips is as much affected by tyre type, wear and pressure as it is by sphere orifice changes.
The tyre sidewall stiffness is the first vertical spring in the suspension.
I would be interested in Dean's thoughts about how much difference thin sidewall tyres make to an XM.
In my opinion drilling out spheres is delicate engineering job best avoided because of the risks from residual swarf.
Particularly so where spheres to the chosen altenative spec are available new for around £25.
John
Have just read my way through this old, interesting and extremely rangy topic. I think John is absolutely right with respect to tyre choice and condition.
The tyre is the first item of "bump absorption" in the system, and is affected by make, tyre-model, age, and pressure. In my experience, new tyres always feel more impact-absorbing than old ones (rubber presumably more flexible and less sun-baked).
Tyre fitters usually over-inflate (as well as over-tighten), and inflating to textbook pressure seems essential. Even a couple of psi over will bring on unpleasant low-speed/ridge discomfort in the XM, and reducing this to textbook usually fixes it. Important to inflate to correct figure when tyre is cold (20degC is usually quoted for pressure), and to avoid inflating to this figure in the depths of winter. Slight under-inflation, by just a couple of psi, although not recommended for tyre-wear or lateral stability, does seem to improve crashiness.
I've always found the XM to be very happy on Michelins: first Primacy, then Energy. Both have
very supple (but none too gash-resistant) sidewalls.
After the tyre, sudden impacts are next fed to the "unsprung lump" which is the wheel/hub/strut assembly, and there isn't much we can do about any of this. Most of us ride on alloys, and I don't know whether a heavier steel wheel (not that I'm suggesting it) would behave differently. A heavier wheel would, in any case, just make a supple impact-absorbing tyre all the more important.
What's left of the impact is then transmitted to the suspension sphere, where the decision about volume/pressure/orifice comes in. I agree with John about the risks of drilling and debris and possible problems. I guess that increasing sphere volume would provide extra "comfort" - i.e. a small amount of additional suspension travel - possibly if coupled with a reduction in sphere gas pressure. But isn't this what Hydractive provides by switching-in the centre spheres (greater sphere/gas volume and elasticity) ?
So, are we just back to the old question of some of us wanting to be able to switch in Comfort (i.e. NOT Sport) at will, or maybe semi-permanently? [ Back to the electronic problem, then. Can anyone provide exact details of the waveform and voltage of the solenoid driver? ]
None of us complains much about the benefits of the car being in firm/Sport/4-sphere mode when it's being thrown around a twisting road, cornering, or braking hard. This is just all very welcome "stability", so being permanently in 6-sphere soft mode is probably not to be recommended.
Back to the damping orifices . . . Enlarging these too much would be akin to driving a conventionally sprung car with ineffective or no dampers. Given a car in this condition, hitting a sudden ridge/manhole/pothole (the sort of thing we complain about on the XM) would still produce an unwelcome thud, UNLESS THE TYRES COULD ABSORB IT.
Several of us have commented that some extra weight in the car definitely helps, be it passengers, cement bags, heavier engines, or full tanks.
So why was the BX such a good ride? Michelins - yes. Heavy car? - absolutely not. Lots of roll? - possibly (by XM/Hydractive standards). Unacceptably so? - no. Macphersons? - yes. Long-travel suspension - definitely.
Still without a definitive answer, but I think the tyres are very much a key.
Chris