Citroen XM Forum

Mk1 XM IR remotes come in two different types.
It is only the early cars that are hard coded.
Face lift Mk1 XM's came with self coding IR sets which will code up with Mk1 Xantia sets.
Electric plug wiring is the same for all these Mk1's so you can swap bits and make up sets for all but the early Mk1 XM's.
Nothing to stop you putting a complete self coding set into an early XM Mk1.

Mk2 XM RF sets are another matter all together.
Security level goes to a stage higher than the Mk2 Xantia and similar Citroen RF sets.
The XM RF is factory coded and cannot be reset by the Lexia.
Nor can kit parts be mixed between the sets.

John

So to re cap, to get my remote central locking working, should I?
1) Re solder connections in my plipper

if that doesn't work

2) buy a remote receiver & plipper from broken series 2 XM like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-XM-Tu ... 259f34cb8c

Fit the receiver to my car and change the plipper circuit board with my key.

Also if the receiver is under the glove box, is it easy to spot? Is the new one plug & play?

Yes and yes but be aware that few scrap cars have the working paired set you need.
Receiver under the glove box is central with the box out and the largest component.

John

Got home from work today to find two XM things in the post, the reg doc, so I'm officially the keeper & the Haynes BOL for the XM. Unfortunately the BOL does not seem to include the V6, a bit annoying! I want to change the oil/filter ATF over the Easter holidays, I've had a search around the forum & can't find a guide to either, is there one?

Atf is very easy on the older zf4 hp18 mechanical box..

raise up the car possibly on all 4 and SUPPORT THE HEIGHT WITH ALXLE STANDS OR WHAT EVER YOU HAVE AND SECURELY
on the bottom of the box is a circular plate with three 10mm bolts.. remove the bolts.
I think you drain the oil warm or hot so be carefull for fluid temperature.
Get a bowl and lever carefully the circular plate.. fluid will come out.. brown if seriously dead.. red if recent
The filter is also in there. Grasp ot with pliers and pull out..
clean the filter.. and push it back in
the fileings magnet is in the cover you levered off.. clean it up.. refit the cover and bolt back up.
just below the battery box on top of the auto box is a black cap.. remove.. and refill through here the couple of liters that have drained out..
only a couple of liters come out each change. Check the level on the dip stick. It gives a hot n cold level.
ONLY USE DEXRON 2 in the hp4 18 box. Dont let a seler fob you off with dex 3. It will kill the box.

Oil filter accessed from under the car too. And completely conventional in changing.

The only guide that covers the PRV V6 engine is Russek, which does have its uses and copies can easily be found on the Bay! In the Haynes guide you get some info on the HP18 box of course. I concur with Paul's guide to gearbox oil change and would only add that the engine oil filter can be a pain to remove as access is poor and I use the screwdriver method myself! Regards, Matthew T.

citroenxm wrote:Atf is very easy on the older zf4 hp18 mechanical box..

raise up the car possibly on all 4 and SUPPORT THE HEIGHT WITH ALXLE STANDS OR WHAT EVER YOU HAVE AND SECURELY
on the bottom of the box is a circular plate with three 10mm bolts.. remove the bolts.
I think you drain the oil warm or hot so be carefull for fluid temperature.
Get a bowl and lever carefully the circular plate.. fluid will come out.. brown if seriously dead.. red if recent
The filter is also in there. Grasp ot with pliers and pull out..
clean the filter.. and push it back in
the fileings magnet is in the cover you levered off.. clean it up.. refit the cover and bolt back up.
just below the battery box on top of the auto box is a black cap.. remove.. and refill through here the couple of liters that have drained out..
only a couple of liters come out each change. Check the level on the dip stick. It gives a hot n cold level.
ONLY USE DEXRON 2 in the hp4 18 box. Dont let a seler fob you off with dex 3. It will kill the box.

Oil filter accessed from under the car too. And completely conventional in changing.

Thanks, sounds easy! I was a bit wary of the auto box as when I had a Volvo V70 T5 auto, it was pretty tricky since you filled through the dip stick hole with a funnel on a really long tube, the level had to set hot as well. On the Volvo forum, there were lots of horror stories of people (including garages) who removed a hex bolt "filler" which actually released the 3rd gear band! Big mistake! Apparently some of the garage CD manuals tell them to do this! the Volvo also needed Volvo's own make ATF very expensive.

On the XM is there a recommended supplier (on ebay?) for the filters oil crush washer etc? I always use Total & Parflux on the C4, I will check with those sellers, but obviously the XM is a bit older & even rarer. Actually maybe not as according to How Many Left, there are only 403 C4 VTS 180s on the road.

MTXM wrote:The only guide that covers the PRV V6 engine is Russek, which does have its uses and copies can easily be found on the Bay! In the Haynes guide you get some info on the HP18 box of course. I concur with Paul's guide to gearbox oil change and would only add that the engine oil filter can be a pain to remove as access is poor and I use the screwdriver method myself! Regards, Matthew T.

OK I'll have a look for that guide. I take it you mean bash a driver through the filter? I often do that when I first buy a car as they are always on stupid tight and most filter removal tools are not that good.

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Dean wrote:viewtopic.php?f=13&t=71" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Aha! Thanks!

This Tripple QX stuff...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triple-QX-ATF ... 4d26253c59" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is what Ive always put into my Mates 2.1 TD Exclusive Auto with HP 4 18 box.

Couple ltrs each change every 6 to 8k miles and so far the box has now got to 254k! And we beleve the box to be original.. and still amazingly smooth!