Citroen XM Forum

Is that before, or after fitting the new pulleys?
If after, has the poly-belt shredded again?

I have a suspicion that a ploy-belt getting under the timing belt might cause the cam timing to slip a bit...

Have you bothered performing a compression, or cylinder leakage test, to check for any leaking valves?
You can perform a compression test with the cam followers, or cam out, if you don't yet have a belt fitted.
Normally the valves don't bend, but one member did suffer that, and I recall, the damage to your engine was with it running at speed.

LOL, this is just removing of more of the debris from the original shredded belt (twice WOULD be unlucky )

All timed up and crank locked now.....I will now install the replacement rockers and mount the cam box/cam........on the home stretch now.

On the plus side I fired up the wood burner to keep warm

Moving on.....

Stole a couple of hours....Cam box back on.....

Looking good.
Just checking that you did silicon the mating surfaces between the cam box and head?

Yes I did, I used Loctite high temp.

Struggling with the cam belt tensioner today.....try again tomorrow.

Struggling to fit it, or to tension it?

It should bolt onto the studs readily, then the tension is released by loosening the roller centre stud nut, the tensioner cam locking bolt, then turn the cam using the 10mm nut to push the roller back against the spring.
To set the tension just turn the cam to release the spring, then lock the cam using the centre bolt, then the roller centre nut to lock that.

Will the head of the bolt inside the engine mount that holds the tensioner off is buggered alasdair needs to remove the whole lot to clean the bolt head up but I cannot remember how it. Comes away.. I'm sure you do..

That's pretty common as people think that is the tensioner cam bolt and try to turn the cam using it. It is the lock for the tensioner cam bolt and only needs nipping up.

To remove the complete tensioner one just needs to remove the nut from the stud that passes through the tensioner roller.
The hard part is that the engine mount block has to come off the engine to allow the tensioner unit off.
That mount is awkward to remove as the chassis leg is in the way of the long bolts.
Place a jack under the engine and jack it up and down at the appropriate time, to allow the bolts to be withdrawn.
The mount can then be lifted out.

Ah crap I couldn't remember if the mount needed to come off or not.