Citroen XM Forum

Mot is due .. 26th but due to funding issues will have to wait an extra week before we can go and get her looked over..

I can envisage any issue but you never know what may turn up. Brakes feel even and no rear end lift indication lazy or no rear caliper work, though I have put rear discs and pads on and bled them up.. need to do lights check, we did welding last year to the rear inner cills around the jacking plate, see previous posts, I've stuck wipers on at last.. so I'm fairly confident we will be all good..

She will of done 3,443 miles since last mot.. almost on 270k..

But a few jobs needed again...

Sunroof is more a rain roof, its cimming in all over the place at the front, off the small centre sun visor, behind the drivers main sunvisor.. it stopped working a few years ago so I'd say the tray has pretty much had it..

The heater box flow direction is not set correctly in relation to the stepper motor. In addition to that when I was last under the dash the flap control gear was very stiff indication stiff inner flaps. I had this on my L reg 2.1 project car. It was a heater box out and split apart to clean up and free up the flaps which worked well.. then the car fell to back if the que. I shall do this one the same and get them freed up.

For own comfort in summer as we seem to get fairly warm summer's and she has cooked us twice in a row going to rallies get the ac sorted..

I did a compressor swap and pipe work but when I tried to apply a vqccum on the system with my vac pump and dials I couldn't get a vaccum. I have another set of system pipes to try on it plus a full set of new O rings etc ..

The first thing to break on this car today.. after a very long service life the drivers window decided to drop into the door.

I dont believe I've ever had the door card off the drivers door on this one, giving the regulator a very good life of over 100k miles of use..

But today, I pressed up it started to move then clunk ...

Are you going to re-wire the original one?

No idea. I'm not good at re making things and tend to opt for replace.. according to parts the s2 carries the same part number as the s1 unit. I'm most likely to replace..

Needed a better window prop .. and I hate sticking them down so attempted to remove the door card..

I say attempted as the upper door handle screw that under the top 90 deg curve of the handle decided it wasn't comming out.. I could hear a nice crunch of rust behind it..

Sure enough the tab it screws into was all rotton.. after a bit of shoving and pushing once all other fixings were out we got the card off...
Lovley.. nice bit of rot.. but.. how??

Anyway we got the regulator out and I can confirm that on drivers doors S1 regulator and one touch setup was not carried over and they did switch to 9 pin ecu on motor setup from S2 off...

So.. moving forward..

Door. I decided after a brainwave ill cut the rotton section out and cut a decent bit from another door and weld it in. I'm sure I've got doors that are rotton in other areas but have this fixing in good order... this saves a full door swap and a spray as the rest of the door is still good..

Regulator. Ill fit an S1 regulator along with Marc61 s guide using relays which he did on his car and wrote up on here..

So nothing drastic..

Could you not use the relays out of the added motor drive module?
Just add the module to a replacement motor, or swap the motor unit over to a replacement regulator.

If you don't have an already scrap door, rather than cutting another door up, just weld on a tag of steel then drill it.
I can't remember, but as this tag is a separate piece of metal to the actual door frame (hence it rusts), how is it fitted originally?

Its tacked onto the door as a separate peace as you suspect. I've got some rotton doors .. id not take it off a decent door. Your suggestion of course would be second option.

A strange noise is starting to come from the gearbox when cold. .. its deafently not the blower motor as its off completely, and its on over run, ie when I lift off...

It can be heard at around 14 seconds and again 20 seconds .. its fine under load. So my concern is, is it something I need to start being concerned about. I have to say the box was an unknown qty when we acquired it.. I've done 6k on it and its had about 3 fluid changes and I want to do another.

However, is it a sign of something starting to fail....?

I couldn't hear it, but if it's only on over-run, then I would suspect the differential bearings are worn allowing the crown wheel to shift when driven, or on over-run.

Borrowed time? Or not to drastic..?