Citroen XM Forum

I didn't have one, I have a plastic, transparent hose to the pump and you can see if there is air in the hose.
A diesel or gasoline engine is an engine ?

..again the same problem, after 3 months it went out again, luckily in front of the house, the same thing happened for 2-3 seconds and then went out, only after several failed starting attempts, the engine light was not displayed, did a fuse blow ?, what turned off the light ?

That sounds like an air leak into the fuel pipes. The engine starts on the fuel in the pump, but that is soon replaced with air, so the engine stalls and will only start once the pump has sucked fuel from the tank.
Check the fuel pipes and filter unit for air leaks.

It won't start even when manually pumped, I checked everything again and there is no air in the pipes.
What bothers me is that the engine light is not on, where does it get the signal to light up from.

The Ecu.

My other thought for black smoke is the injector lift sensor, which is a signal for the injection timing and are known for the cable at the injector failing.

I solved the problem with the check engine light, the fuse in position 31 of 10A was blown.

I also replaced the wires for the pump, which on all engines with the Lukas pump are in very poor condition, with the cable moving there was probably a short circuit and the fuse that powers the ECU relay blew.

Replacing the wiring is not complicated, here are a few pictures of the work.
...after replacing the fuse, the check engine light comes on again.
[attachment=1]

Slowly cut the connector in half, exactly along the line where it was assembled at the factory.

..remove the connector cover and pull the mechanism out of the connector.
...you can see here that the insulation along the entire length of the wire is in a catastrophic state.

...unsolder all the wires on the pump, except for wires numbered 23 and 24, cut those wires a little longer and solder new wires to them, first put on some heat shrink tubing to provide some insulation, you can see in the picture that there is a resistor in that place and that the soldering point is very difficult, it's easier this way.

Here I made a wiring diagram, ..so you don't have to mess around and separate the wires one by one, this is the layout of where each wire goes, the first row of numbers are the numbers on the connector, those numbers, solder the wires to the numbers on the pump board.
So you can immediately cut the cables without worrying about which wire was where, this is the wiring diagram.

...the pins from the connector are slightly pushed out of the plugs, unsolder the old wire and solder the new wire and put everything back in place, in the end everything turns out like this, the entire bundle of wires is pulled and thermal buzzer.

..at the end, glue the connector with two-component glue, when it dries, remove the excess glue with a little sandpaper so that the snap mechanism is functional again.
...here you can see wires 23 and 24 which have been extended, I used wire with a diameter of 0.75 and 1.0, two wires are larger in diameter, blue in color.

...in the end, this is what it all looks like, after this intervention it worked right away, it was a test drive all day and everything works great

There is also a need to buy new cables, the price is 270 euros, this all cost me about 4 euros and two hours of light work.