Citroen XM Forum

Dieselman wrote:The description you give indicates linkage is just binding in the bearing.

Okay, what about the weird happening with the height adjustment;
I was test driving on a bit bumpy road at appr. 60km/h, when the back end suddenly dropped down. I still dont know what happened, thought it might be possible that the back end was already too low (because of binding in the bearing?) and it then hit the ground because of a bump in the road.......

If that's not the case, is it possible there would be something wrong and cause the back to drop by itself?

Once, when I shut down the engine and got up and was checking the car, the back end suddenly dropped down. It was really FAST, just like that, bang and it was down. This occurred only once.

I've been busy and havent tested the car very much but there's this problem that I'm afraid it could drop down again while moving and break something more so I'd like to be sure that that kind of behaviour SHOULDNT be possible and is explained with "too low"-setting in the height adjustments..

How did you get that coupling fitted there, you can't get it with a flaring tool over there can you? Not sure where you got that coupling from either, I've never seen such one. But well done anyways for now. I'd suggest you make new pipes behind your rear subframe since chances are they are not in great shape there either.

I've never heard of the car dropping down like that and being able to come up again. Usually it's the height adjuster that comes loose but in that case it won't recover ever until you fix it back on. I'd start with changing your spheres first.

Thanks, I'll see whether it drops again, then something should be done. But in the meantime, I believe the back wasn't high enough when I drove to a bump. The "crash" broke a pipe in back: therefore the back didn't rise again. Now when I've fixed the leak, it rises.


I cut the pipe with an electric drill-kind of a tool, kinda like this:
http://images.dremeleurope.com/fi/fi/oc ... n-9180.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Then I grinded/refined the pipe's mouths good.

The coupling is from a Finnish, long term Citroen shop for Citroen-enthustiastics. It should be a legit part. A normal hydraulic part as I see it, I'm a farmer and have fixed a lot of hydraulics, this is just the same but in small scale.

edit. It was very tricky to install up there. It felt like being a dentist for a robot or something like that.

Looks like a 6 or 8mm compresion coupler, if it does the job though its a winner.

D

Looked like a compression coupling to me, too - the sort with a compressIble olive at each end. Not a traditional Citroen repair, but if the pipe is sound and clean, should work as a temporary measure. Not sure I'm happy about it as a long-term fix though, particularly on a brake circuit.

On the sudden drop, and regain of height, this could be some air in the system . . . and possibly LHM level low in the reservoir. If in doubt, throw in an extra 1litre; it will do no harm, and there's plenty of room in there. Do a few Citrobics too, and bleed the hydraulic system*.

(* Engine running. Operate suspension Low > High > Low > High. Perform the bleeding with suspension on High, wheels hanging. Jack up and remove road wheels. Put very light pressure on the brake pedal, 5-6kg. Bleed fluid from each of the 4 brake caliper screws in turn: RR, RL, FR, FL. With the brake pedal lightly pressed, slackening off the bleed screw will allow a slow stream of fluid from the screw. Attach some clear tubing into a jar, and bleed off until bubble-free. Keep reservoir well topped. Expect to bleed off around 1 litre in total.)

Air can get into the hydraulic system if there is a small leak in the suction pipe that runs from LHM reservoir to the HP pump. Usual place for a leak at the reservoir end....the 90deg elbow in the pipe. Check and renew clips and any "padding" under the clips. (Try to use clips which squeeze pipe evenly all round, which a thick/heavy-duty worm clip might not.) Because this is a suction pipe, a fluid leak might not be visible, but air can be drawn in.

https://www.google.fi/search?q=compress ... 58&bih=985" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The same thing, yes. Are traditional Citroen parts better or are they just traditional? "Compression olive", okay. In Finnish, they are "pearls", not "olives". Hilarious.

It seems to do the job well.

Thanks very much for guidance and information!

No problem.
I don't think there is an official Citroen item to repair a broken/holed steel pipe..... The complete pipe would normally be replaced by a Citroen workshop.

To be honest one of the smaller fittings would take about 80bar but they are usually rated connected to pipe and the pipe used is normally 1mm wall copper, so the fitting is not the weak point, jobs a goodun.

D

Brilliant writing up about the bleeding of the system Chris, worthy to put in in a self help file for future reference.

Yes it is a very good job with that coupling!!

I have always admired many farmers for their ability of fixing things. I'd like to know where to get these couplings Rojekti, they'd be ideal to have with you on long travels just in case. In some countries it is forbidden to fix pipes like this (France for example) but it is a no brainer of course.

Any plumbers merchants, these fittings are all for metric pipe commonly in 6 8 10 and 15mm but they do manufacture a 4mm, its just not at all common in domestic heating systems so not many have it on the shelf. you can get adapters to take imperial, not that we require that. You can get some adapters where you silver solder a collet onto the pipe and a compression coupler joins them also.
One thing to note, compression fittings do not cope well with vibration, flexing or rapid pressure fluctuations, always use a jointing compound suitable for the fluid the pipe carries, PTFE tape wrapped clockwise around the olive on the pipe is a safe bet for all situations.

D