Citroen XM Forum

I scanned through your rather more comprehensive restoration photos Dean and it was interesting to see treatment of the front subframe member, which was in need of some attention on my car. I have not progressed beyond liberal coats of Waxoil at this point!! With regards, Matthew T.

I have used about 1 litre of Dinitrol corromax 3125 to do the subframes, 4 chassis rails under the car, and all the hollow sections in and around the engine bay, ive also done half of one sill and the pillars behind the wings so 2 litres is about minimum as there are some rails to do behind the fuel tank and under the rear bumper as you say, i have 3 litres which should give plenty to do the job well.

I have forgoten as you sparking off this chat made me go down to the shed and it seems i thought This was a good idea as ive bought 5 litres of it, i remember now a lot of the fans of old BL stuff tend to rate it well and i think you will agree the price is right!

Matthew, waxoil seems fine, it does say it kills old rust and the stuff i put under the boot floor years ago has no sign of rust or peeling, im really happy with it.
I tdoesnt creap though and its very soft so i treated inside the subframe with dinitrol and outside, well, you can see. The dinitrol really pulls through the join in the two halves of the subframe and spraying straight away with the stone chip has hopefully sealed it up well and given a hard outer coating.

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All good advice Dean and I admire your very thorough approach to the job. I also meant to say after seeing your initial photo of the car rear end that is where I had the most severe rust on my 24v, apart from along one of the cills. After removing the bumper for painting I found the very flimsy downstand had nearly disappeared on one side! With regards, Matthew T.

I remember you mentioned that at cxm, the only thing i can think is mine was garaged most of its early life and only done high speed runs in the summer when the owner went on his hols to scotland.
High speed travel in salty conditions is going to bath the cars nooks and crannies in salt that wont get rinsed off and maybe this is the cause.....................

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I found a couple of Xms local to me that have been sitting for years in a field. One of them is completely rotten around the back edge of the boot floor, and starting to go along the side of the wheel arches. I was amazed as to how bad it was.

I have some Tetra Stone Chip to use on the sills of the green estate. I haven't used it before. I have used Gravitex before. It is generally Ok. But I have found it to flake off at times which is crap.

So its a case of using the more expensive Dinitrol for cavities and subframes, and plastering the underside, subframes (after a bit of Dinitrol) and wheel arches with the cheaper Terta Shutz or 3M stuff.

Just to update my thread and regain the original subject since pulling the engine out earlier this week! I obtained invaluable assistance from another local XM enthusiast, Dave (the Rave), partly for a second pair of hands, but also because, despite having access to my Dad's trailer, I do not have a tow bar on any of my cars!! The engine came out quite cleanly, apart from unexpectedly having to remove the right-hand driveshaft intermediate bearing housing, which was a real pig to access. The engine even got a quick clean outside and is now at my friendly local garage awaiting further attention. Later in the day I cleaned the engine bay and driveshafts and underneath the grime the subframe is in amazing condition, mainly due to being pickled in oil and grease I think! For the refit I will completely remove the driveshafts and the access I now have is handy as one inner driveshaft gaitor and the left-hand steering rack gaitor also need replacement. The garage have very helpfully agreed that I can spend an afternoon further stripping down the top of the engine that will save me a few pounds! With regards, Matthew T.

Good work Matthew and Dave.

Isn't it annoying that the subframe front cross-member isn't just bolt on, which would allow the engine to be removed on a trolley jack.

Exellent stuff Gents, take care of her Matthew, i like that gold one

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Many thanks Chaps and I will keep you posted on further developments. It turns out both steering rack gaiters need replacing and the right-hand driveshaft inner gaiter, which are fortunately now very accessible with the engine out! Hopefully our local main dealer can assist with the gaiters as I have found originals are far preferable. I am spending next Wednesday afternoon at the garage stripping off the top of the engine, hopefully including the exhaust manifolds etc. My ambition is to have the car back on the road next spring and all being well she will appear at the National and CXM at least and maybe even the ICCCR. With regards, Matthew T.