Citroen XM Forum

It's easy to get really hung up sometimes when faced with a frustrating succession of problems like that, have been there.
But as you've found, a few beers and looking at it again with fresh eyes can make all the difference and bring back the motivation.

Like Will says, what can seem like a gargantuan task is much less daunting when you look at it as a series of small jobs.

XM doesn't want to live? Then it's your job to drag it kicking and screaming back to life until it learns the error of it's ways

Ciarán

XM-dom

Glad to report finally got the damn flange bolt off by using a new fluted bolt removal socket (old one was a tad worn and not gripping) held with mole grips as normal socket set wouldn't fit between bolt and exhaust. The 10mm nut at t'other end then unwound. Very happy. So then most of today removing various pipes, hoses, wiring loom and will pull the beggar tomorrow. Did notice some lateral play on the turbo compressor which might need looking at. I'll get a better look when the engine is out.

citroenxm wrote:

Dieselman wrote:Don't panic. Just work through the strip and rebuild steadily.

If the exhaust won't come apart, undo the manifold nuts and let it slide off the studs.

Far easier said then done on an egr car.. you should know that will..

I do, but it's what I did.

What might be handy for you to hold off for the tool box is a small nut spliter

Removing the steering rack shield would help access.

Finally got the engine and 'box out this morning. It took longer to sort out the rusted exhaust downpipe flange bolts than the actual process of removing the engine. Have taken loads of photos for anyone who needs to know where components go such as pipe runs within the engine bay. Removing the steering rack heatshield was a pitta as someone had used a damn zip cable tie underneath the part of the shield where the large spring clip attaches to the pinion valve assembly. No idea why as the standard clips hold it tight. Anyway, once the exhaust bolts were off and the hydraulic-pump pulley extension removed, engine and box slid out with room to spare - I think the auto box is actually slightly smaller than the manual gearbox.
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Engine and transmission out. Thank goodness for the load leveller.
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southerner wrote:What might be handy for you to hold off for the tool box is a small nut spliter

Have got several nut splitters of various sizes but on the 2.1 TD, the part of the exhaust from the turbo to the downpipe goes through a tight turn and in addition has an insulated heatshield formed and crimped around it - which reduces access. The problem was the seized exhaust flange bolt head which had rounded off. The 10mm nut at the other end (accessed from other end of subframe/height corrector mounts) was fine but as the whole 'stud' rotated, it meant had to find a way to grip the bolt head. Used a fluted worn bolt/nut removal socket held in postion with mole grips. Spanner kept knocking it off the bolt so mole grips much easier.

I know its hard job to get at, not long taken an engine out of a mk 1.6 (L reg) 2.1 TD auto and put it in an older XM (K reg) 2.1 TD auto.
I am totally stripping the L reg xm so if theres any parts you need lets us know i have loads of parts that are needed to get rid off and I don't want to waste them, looking for two items for my road xm a black leather front seat (don't mater which one as they can be altered) and strut top driver side I think, then I will change the sun roof over and the back tail gate door (both are estate models).
Oh when you put it all back together you might get problems with Turbo not showing if its working or not on the techo, after long hours and asking questions all over the place and renewing some bits, I found it it was just a case of turning a screw on the vacuum regulater 1 mm at a time.

I know all about the exhaust bolts on a 2.1

Spent knocking on 5 hours spread over a few days putting new bolts on. When it needed fettling again I booked it into an exhaust place!

Annoyingly, when I rebuilt the engine, I realised that it would be a pig to put the downpipe on with the engine in situ so I attached it and did the bolts up a few turns while the engine was partly out...trouble was after all the faffing putting the engine back in, the downpipe fell off!