Dieselman wrote:SteveLP wrote:...............Why not get a local fabricator to tig weld it?
Brazing/welding is not the best way forward IMHO, because after this process (from the heat input) it can alter the tube material/strength properties and thus may suffer further failure in the future around/adjacent to the repaired area !
The best way is a mechanical joint, as it simple, safe and permanent (After all each end has a threaded connector) this repair I have done on my brothers XM S1.5 pipe-work once (by cutting out the thick rubber looped pipe from the FDV for the PAS damper on front of the engine near the regulator) which was split, I grafted in a rubber pipe (From a BX which was the same dia. and length) with some of the 6.35 mm tubing which was still crimped into the rubber pipe on each end and then simply using a
SWAGELOK connector to make the mechanical joints to each tube ends which was originally off the XM and simply boxed it all up back in place with no further problems or leaks, In fact it was
THIS one before my brother sold it on to this owner (E-Bay seller) who has now sold it on again, anyone off the Forum who's bought it ?
So Steve if I was you, all you need to do is find some similar/shaped piece of 6.35mm tubing with a flared up end with one threaded union on it to match your female connection (say from the breakers off any Hydro/Citroen which looks serviceable), then you can cut out the split section on your pipework (As it's look as if it's on a bend towards one of the threaded connectors) so as you can make the mechanical joint on the straight section !
These fittings are widely used in the petro-chemical /Aero (Rig/test equipment) industries and are are very reliable, in the Swagelok
CATALOGUE they even state “Over 10 000 fittings and not a single leak.”
I hope this may be of help to you and others which may have or may face a similar type of problem with an alternative type of fix, if a replacement pipe is not readily available !
XMX