Dollywobbler's 1995 S2 2.1 TD SX Manual

[dollywobbler]

Finally got around to an oil and filter service.


I really should have checked the oil capacity before draining it. Fortunately, it obviously wasn't at maximum capacity or my catch tank would have been overwhelmed!

[dollywobbler]

The XM has covered around 600 miles over the past week, transporting us to Cornwall and back. I'm still very fond of it, which is something of a miracle for me. Usually I'm bored with a new car after mere weeks - this one has lasted over six months!

The ARB drop links need replacing next. The ride feels fidgety when I drive it for a while, but feels sublime if I've been driving something else...

There has been a 'French electrics' central locking issue that started a couple of weekends ago. We were camping (XM pulled our trailer tent without noticing it was there) and sat out drinking tea when the XM suddenly started unlocking/relocking. That resolved into a random locking situation as you drive along. In fact, sometimes it'd try to relock before you'd even opened the door to get in! The boot lock has always been a bit hit-and-miss as to whether it'll actually lock (it unlocks on the button every time) so I wonder if that's a bit sticky. So, perhaps it's relocking because it's sensed a lock isn't fully unlocked? I manually locked/unlocked the boot a few times and it has been absolutely fine since. Coincidence? Time will tell.

[xmexclusive]

Check the condition of the wiring in the rubber flexible by the drivers side boot hinge.
Common place for intermittent fault problems due to wire breaking/shorting due to repeated flexing.

John

[dollywobbler]

Ah, just like my old Peugeot 306 then, which did the rather less useful trick of refusing to lock at all. (that was between driver's door and A post though).

[xmexclusive]

Just squeeze the rubber bellows so the wires move about.
Only if the fault changes strip bellows to repair wires.

John

[dollywobbler]

Locks have mysteriously self-cured again. Apart from the boot lock, which still needs to be locked manually, then unlocks with the rest.

Have been experimenting with waste veg over the past week or so (supplied by a friend - centrifuge filtered). Seems very happy, apart from cold starting. Some have suggested this could be down to an air leak somewhere, made worse by the thicker veg. I think I'll just go back to dino diesel for now. Will cure my hunger for chips for a start.

Otherwise, I'm almost seven months and over 6000 miles into XM ownership, and I seem to be loving it more each day. Am now considering funding a clutch change, because the heavy pedal is taking the edge off my enjoyment. Big job?

Have a shot from tonight.

[captainhaddock]

We'll give you a hand but you'd have to come camping in Ireland. Nice car but strange tow bar Changing a clutch is kind of a big job but I first change that clutch cable cause if it's original it's bound to be worn.
Boot lock has given me troubles on both my XM's as well so fix that first. Nice pic!

[White Exec]

Think that towbar has a dished anti-wollop plate behind the ball, to prevent a trailer hitch over-running into the bodywork during hitching/unhitching. Some of these plates were thick and flat, and doubled as bike carriers.

[Dieselman]

Changing a clutch is straightforward. Support the engine, remove the driveshafts, undo gearbox mount, slide gearbox sideways on jack, change clutch, rebuild.

[dollywobbler]

Ah, ok. Maybe I will give it a go then. Once I've decided which clutch to buy. I guess gearbox oil needs draining for the shafts to come out, but I've been meaning to change the fluid anyway. Must admit though, I've not changed the clutch on any car since 2001 (an Acadiane). I rarely keep cars long enough for a clutch to wear out!

My main motivation to do it is that the clutch is very creaky and stiff, and the bite not super-strong. I guess it could be cable related though? The creak is pedal box end.