The front bumper outriggers needed some repairs, mainly due to the wheel-arch liner rubber bung being missing.
Cut-out plated and sealed
I also wire wheeled the wheel-houses and applied seam sealer to areas where it had come away. I also welded the lead edge of the A pillar where the metal layers are only sealed with seam sealer...which breaks down and allows water into the A pillar and front jacking point areas.
The steering gear heat shield clip was missing so I made one from a bit of stainless spring wire. The wire gauge is slightly thinner, so hopefully it will stay in place, if not I'll make one from some thicker metal.
Also finally managed to look at the paint code and Rp number
1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
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Dieselman
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Re: 1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
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91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
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Dieselman
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Re: 1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
The front wheel-house was treated to primer.
It was time to deal with the vampire bite in the right headlamp glass
On stripping the unit I noted the reflectors were quite dusty, so washed them out with soapy water, rinsed and dried using warm air. Avoid touching the silvering, it will come off, as the aluminium has oxidised somewhat.
I washed both units out. Only pics of R/h one here. Note: The internal polycarbonate headlamp lens goes smooth side out for Lhd, patterned side out for Rhd.
I also found the previously missing power steering ram nut under the R/h headlamp.
I washed both units out. Only pics of R/h one here. Note: The internal polycarbonate headlamp lens goes smooth side out for Lhd, patterned side out for Rhd.
I also found the previously missing power steering ram nut under the R/h headlamp.
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91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
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Dieselman
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- Posts: 14827
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:44 pm
Re: 1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
A bit more done.
Painted the primed sections in two coats of top coat, made complete headlamps up and refitted them and the bumper support bar.
Painted the primed sections in two coats of top coat, made complete headlamps up and refitted them and the bumper support bar.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
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Dieselman
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Re: 1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
More done, starting with panting the lower part of the sills in black, which took 4 coats to cover the primer and white paint.
Next I fixed the locating spigot back onto the ECU box after it broke off when removing it, drilled and screwed in a self tapping screw, then glued with epoxy adhesive.
I also trimmed the spigot barbs so that it no longer jams really hard in the grommet, which is what leads to them breaking off. With the engine and cooling reservoir installed you can't access the grommet to lubricate the spigot when removing. I tested the pressure in all the spheres and found most to be approx. 40% down, though on re-gassing one front corner sphere ruptured, so I fitted a pair of new ones.
Reassuringly, it had the correct spheres installed in each location. Bear in mind, for the rears estates have different specification spheres than saloons, due to the rear ram piston sizes being larger: 400cc @ 40Bar corners, 500cc @ 40 Bar centre. Due to being an automatic, with A/c the pressure regulator is more challenging to reach. The best way is to remove the plastic air pipe that runs from the turbo to the inter-cooler. After fitting the spheres I removed and cleaned the Lhm reservoir and filters, using petrol.
Dirt from the tank. Filter unit removed from the tank, then filters removed and cleaned.
After re-installing the tank I filled it with 4.5 litres of Lhm and bled the system and brakes.
I spent some time pushing out the dent in the rear left door. I'm not really happy with the result, but it's a lot better than it was.
I should have made up a tensioning bar to stretch the door skin prior to pushing the dent out. I might revisit this sometime. I painted all the rear box section joints and any areas where coatings were coming off, sprayed rust-proofing into the sills, A pillar, B pillar and main underbody box sections, then installed the body plugs with underseal to create a full seal.
At some stage I'll drop the rear subframe and paint it. Rustproofing required access via the inner sill body plugs, so now that is complete I have started installing the interior, the carpet and front seats are in.
I also trimmed the spigot barbs so that it no longer jams really hard in the grommet, which is what leads to them breaking off. With the engine and cooling reservoir installed you can't access the grommet to lubricate the spigot when removing. I tested the pressure in all the spheres and found most to be approx. 40% down, though on re-gassing one front corner sphere ruptured, so I fitted a pair of new ones.
Reassuringly, it had the correct spheres installed in each location. Bear in mind, for the rears estates have different specification spheres than saloons, due to the rear ram piston sizes being larger: 400cc @ 40Bar corners, 500cc @ 40 Bar centre. Due to being an automatic, with A/c the pressure regulator is more challenging to reach. The best way is to remove the plastic air pipe that runs from the turbo to the inter-cooler. After fitting the spheres I removed and cleaned the Lhm reservoir and filters, using petrol.
Dirt from the tank. Filter unit removed from the tank, then filters removed and cleaned.
After re-installing the tank I filled it with 4.5 litres of Lhm and bled the system and brakes.
I spent some time pushing out the dent in the rear left door. I'm not really happy with the result, but it's a lot better than it was.
I should have made up a tensioning bar to stretch the door skin prior to pushing the dent out. I might revisit this sometime. I painted all the rear box section joints and any areas where coatings were coming off, sprayed rust-proofing into the sills, A pillar, B pillar and main underbody box sections, then installed the body plugs with underseal to create a full seal.
At some stage I'll drop the rear subframe and paint it. Rustproofing required access via the inner sill body plugs, so now that is complete I have started installing the interior, the carpet and front seats are in.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
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Dieselman
- Global Moderator
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- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:44 pm
Re: 1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
The list doesn't feel like it's getting any shorter, but it must be...
The left hand matrix display wasn't functioning and I noticed the hydraulic low level and pressure warnings weren't operational after engine start. Also the clock was U/s due to delamination of the Lcd green filter. Stripping and re-connecting the warnings section of the dashboard fixed the messages, a new clock unit sorted that.
I also used lock wire to repair the broken dash fixings. I found the speedometer cable top had broken off and the gear selector display had missing segments.
The speedo head was repaired using lock wire and epoxy glue. The gear selection display required cleaning the circuit board with mild acid, washing and drying, then strip the Lcd unit and clean the contacts, the contact side of the Lcd screen and in particular the zebra strip. After re-assembly it was fully functional.
The interior lights were not functioning due to the plastic having broken around the bulb holders due to heat: sorted by gluing the original holders to the unit, ensuring the contacts were making well. I'll install Led bulbs in due course.
I also scrubbed the remote locking receiver with mild acid, washed, rinsed and dried and now have a functioning central locking system, with original flip key. The front towing eye cover was broken off and the tethers snapped, so more lock wire action. I don't want to lose the cover... The broken front indicator/foglamp was replaced with another, which also had a broken locking spring tab, so after a wash-out it was re-sealed and repaired with more lock wire and plastic welding.
The spring latch has a lot of force against it when the unit is clipped in, so the tab needs to be firmly affixed, yet flexible. The gearbox overheat sensor connector wire was broken. I don't have a replacement so repaired the original wiring. The rear of the plug is sealed with mastic, so I dug that out, cleaned the corrosion off the wires with mild acid and wire brush, then soldered new wires on and remade the loom, adding a little extra length for flexibility.
I did think about de-pinning the connector, but removing the contacts wasn't gong to be possible due to the original sealant.
I re-sealed the back of the plug using polymer sealant.
The left hand matrix display wasn't functioning and I noticed the hydraulic low level and pressure warnings weren't operational after engine start. Also the clock was U/s due to delamination of the Lcd green filter. Stripping and re-connecting the warnings section of the dashboard fixed the messages, a new clock unit sorted that.
I also used lock wire to repair the broken dash fixings. I found the speedometer cable top had broken off and the gear selector display had missing segments.
The speedo head was repaired using lock wire and epoxy glue. The gear selection display required cleaning the circuit board with mild acid, washing and drying, then strip the Lcd unit and clean the contacts, the contact side of the Lcd screen and in particular the zebra strip. After re-assembly it was fully functional.
The interior lights were not functioning due to the plastic having broken around the bulb holders due to heat: sorted by gluing the original holders to the unit, ensuring the contacts were making well. I'll install Led bulbs in due course.
I also scrubbed the remote locking receiver with mild acid, washed, rinsed and dried and now have a functioning central locking system, with original flip key. The front towing eye cover was broken off and the tethers snapped, so more lock wire action. I don't want to lose the cover... The broken front indicator/foglamp was replaced with another, which also had a broken locking spring tab, so after a wash-out it was re-sealed and repaired with more lock wire and plastic welding.
The spring latch has a lot of force against it when the unit is clipped in, so the tab needs to be firmly affixed, yet flexible. The gearbox overheat sensor connector wire was broken. I don't have a replacement so repaired the original wiring. The rear of the plug is sealed with mastic, so I dug that out, cleaned the corrosion off the wires with mild acid and wire brush, then soldered new wires on and remade the loom, adding a little extra length for flexibility.
I did think about de-pinning the connector, but removing the contacts wasn't gong to be possible due to the original sealant.
I re-sealed the back of the plug using polymer sealant.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
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Degens
- Knows how to use the parking brake
- Posts: 233
- Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2016 1:34 pm
Re: 1992 2.1 Sd Auto Estate
Such a nice job! I envy your and so many others on the forums technical prowess! 