New hopefull daily!

[Themasteryeti]

The RP number means it will be Hydractive-2, which means it has 2 electrovalves to control the centre spheres, instead of one, with the spheres re-calibrated to give a slightly more compliant ride.
See post about adding extra diodes to Hydractive-2 suspension, to stop errant hard mode activation. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9749&p=128197#p128197

The split pipe is indeed the one already discussed. It's easy to fit, just make note of which hole it pokes through in the bracket welded onto the strut.
For now just insert a pipe, or cut it off and re-attach it.

The starter circuit is very simple, the complete solenoid power passes through the Ign switch, so they can suffer, but it's worth checking battery connections and the starter/solenoid ones too.
These engines won't readily start without a full compliment of working glow-plugs, so check that too.
If you still experience delayed starting, probably with a cloud of smoke, suspect an air leak into the fuel pipes, or filter-head.

Rusty sills and jacking points is common on an Xm, but given you have a welder, and experience using spanners, you won't have any issues looking after the xm.

A 2.1td manual is very desirable, imho.

Oh I'll have some of those diodes at work, I'll definitely add that to my lists of bits to sort!

Return pipe definitely a easy fix for the time being! I'll give that a go so it can at least get on the road!

& Battery looks fairly new and relevant connections look good to that! I'll have a look at the starter tomorrow when it's a bit brighter to see how that looks. I'm unsure on condition of the glowplugs but I do have a lot of history with the car so I might give that a flick through to see if they've been changed at any point

Another thing I wanted to ask, is there supposed to be a cover over this bit in the engine bay? (Afraid I haven't a clue what it actually is) Just looks very open


& There's a small dampener just hanging loose, am I right in thinking that it attaches to the throttle?

[Themasteryeti]

If you still experience delayed starting, probably with a cloud of smoke, suspect an air leak into the fuel pipes, or filter-head.

There was definitely a cloud of smoke on start up and on closer inspection there's a load of rtv smeared around the rocket cover and exhaust manifold so I think you might be right with a leak, I'll add gaskets to my list of bits to get too!

[Dieselman]

The open looking bit in the engine bay is the oil filler. The reason it appears open is because the top of the dipstick has broken off, which they all do due to it being made of silicone.
Your options are to buy a 3D printed one from https://www.f-d-m.fr/ (I no longer see them on their website), find a new dipstick somewhere, P/# 1174 04, or make your own top. The dimensions are 580mm to minimum mark, given in this thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9198&hilit=dipstick

From new the accelerator damper was attached, but regularly used to stick and also make the accelerator pedal feel heavy. It's common for them to have been removed.

Leaks from the cam box cover are common as no-one replaces the rubber gasket and the engine is canted back at 30 degrees. Fit a new gasket, but use a decent brand as quality can be variable. P/# 0249 70

Xm have a reputation for being unreliable, which is not the case if they are maintained properly...the trouble is they have all been neglected and bodged.

Just re-read your previous posts and just want to make sure you are waiting the requisite time (10s) for the glow-plug light to extinguish before attempting to start the engine. The glow-plug lamp is bottom left corner of the instrument cluster.

[Dieselman]

I've found the dipstick tops I was thinking of at Mecaplace https://mecaplace.com/categorie-produit/citroen/xm/

[Themasteryeti]

The open looking bit in the engine bay is the oil filler. The reason it appears open is because the top of the dipstick has broken off, which they all do due to it being made of silicone.
Your options are to buy a 3D printed one from https://www.f-d-m.fr/ (I no longer see them on their website), find a new dipstick somewhere, P/# 1174 04, or make your own top. The dimensions are 580mm to minimum mark, given in this thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9198&hilit=dipstick

From new the accelerator damper was attached, but regularly used to stick and also make the accelerator pedal feel heavy. It's common for them to have been removed.

Leaks from the cam box cover are common as no-one replaces the rubber gasket and the engine is canted back at 30 degrees. Fit a new gasket, but use a decent brand as quality can be variable. P/# 0249 70

Xm have a reputation for being unreliable, which is not the case if they are maintained properly...the trouble is they have all been neglected and bodged.

Just re-read your previous posts and just want to make sure you are waiting the requisite time (10s) for the glow-plug light to extinguish before attempting to start the engine. The glow-plug lamp is bottom left corner of the instrument cluster.

Ah that would make sense! I'm sure I could get creative and make something! Worse comes to worse there is a 3D printed at work I'm sure I could use

As for the damper I might just remove it then as it's completely shot anyway and will be one less rattle in the engine bay then!

& There's quite a few gaskets available on autodoc, any recommendations for a good brand?

It's safe to say this xm looks like it's had a bit of a rough patch, bit tatty, few leaks, missing trims and broken bits but will hopefully all get rectified in time and do the car justice again!


Oh I didn't know I had to wait! So should I just turn the key but not crank then till the light goes out, then crank away?
I have to be honest this is my first Diesel car so I'm a bit rusty on my knowledge of how they work

I've found the dipstick tops I was thinking of at Mecaplace https://mecaplace.com/categorie-produit/citroen/xm/

Oh perfect! I'll definitely go for that option then, many thanks again! You've been a massive help

[Dieselman]

This engine is what is known as an indirect diesel engine, which means the cylinder-head incorporates swirl chambers to fully mix the fuel and air. Due to the greater surface area the gas charge temperature is lower and below auto-ignition temperature, hence glow-plugs are necessary.
In short, expect to wait for the glow-plug lamp, you should then have an easy and clean start.

For engine parts I tend to stick to Payen, Elring, Corteco, Victor Reinz. Febi might be ok, but quality can be variable.

With a bit of effort You will soon have this car sorted.

The purpose of the forum is to keep Xm gobbling up tarmac. Today I help you, tomorrow you help someone else.

[Themasteryeti]

This engine is what is known as an indirect diesel engine, which means the cylinder-head incorporates swirl chambers to fully mix the fuel and air. Due to the greater surface area the gas charge temperature is lower and below auto-ignition temperature, hence glow-plugs are necessary.
In short, expect to wait for the glow-plug lamp, you should then have an easy and clean start.

For engine parts I tend to stick to Payen, Elring, Corteco, Victor Reinz. Febi might be ok, but quality can be variable.

With a bit of effort You will soon have this car sorted.

The purpose of the forum is to keep Xm gobbling up tarmac. Today I help you, tomorrow you help someone else.

I've never heard of that before, very interesting!
& Id never pass on helping someone out to keep these awesome cars going!

Finally gotten round to looking through all the history, I have stacks of old mots, bills and all the hand books!
So naturally I've spent the last two hours flicking through the handbook to learn all the little bits of the car!
And intestingly I've found a note with the radio code and a number for what I can only presume is for a key fob? I didn't think the series ones had the central locking? Does this mean if I can acquire a key I'd be able to get it programmed to lock the doors of this car?

[Dieselman]

The key blade has a code and the IR plip also has a code. I would need to look at a key-card to see which are listed, but I can't see you being able to obtain a Keikert IR plip programmed to code...but one never knows.

The IR receiver is in the roof console, near the interior rear view mirror.

If you have the facility and knowledge to create new IR transmitters, there are a number of members would be interested in that.
If you can't, just install a modern RF keyless entry system, though that means having a separate fob, as so far I haven't found a matchable key that can take an SX9 blade.

See info http://laurent.deschamps.free.fr/plip/plip.htm

[Themasteryeti]

The key blade has a code and the IR plip also has a code. I would need to look at a key-card to see which are listed, but I can't see you being able to obtain a Keikert IR plip programmed to code...but one never knows.

The IR receiver is in the roof console, near the interior rear view mirror.

If you have the facility and knowledge to create new IR transmitters, there are a number of members would be interested in that.
If you can't, just install a modern RF keyless entry system, though that means having a separate fob, as so far I haven't found a matchable key that can take an SX9 blade.

See info http://laurent.deschamps.free.fr/plip/plip.htm

Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge for this, but I have managed to source a door barrel and ignition set to replace my knackered ones, but it's also come with a central locking control box to go with the two plip keys that come with it
Now do all the cars have one of these boxes as I have no clue whether my car originally had & In which case can I simply unplug the old one and fit this new one?

[Dieselman]

All Xm had remote locking function and central locking, so the box you have will fit.
You were very lucky to obtain a matched remote receiver and keys.

The central locking is just that, so if your existing one works from the door locks there is no need to replace it, just fit the new remote receiver and use the new plip.