Stickfinger wrote: ↑Fri Feb 19, 2021 12:51 pm
Cam box cover is off, I can see the compression strokes on each cylinder by watching the valves operate, each compression stroke "feels" like the same resistance/pressure build/release "force" (my long ratchet helps
) I can hear the valve "clack" shut when they come down off the cam. This all happens on each stroke.
I'm not sure whether this is with the belt correctly timed, or in some other state?
If correctly timed, then isn't that the job completed?
The flywheel should be located correctly on the crankshaft journal by the bolts and a locating peg.
If someone has removed the peg it would be possible for the flywheel to be set at any position the bolts allow. Iirc, there are 8 bolts, so any position at 1/8th turn.
...So, lets forget the flywheel..
What needs to be set is the relationship between the pistons/crank and camshaft/valves.
Check the crank nose keyway hasn't been re-machined, by pulling the pulley off the nose of the crank, and check the relationship between the keyway and pistons/crankshaft.
To see the crankshaft you either need to remove the sump, or poke a boroscope/mini camera through the oil drain plug aperture.
The easiest crank and con rods to see will be No.2&3, which need to be at the very bottom of their stroke, with the con rods exactly aligned with the crank webs.
That means No 1&4 will be at TDC.
Mark the front pulley, lock the pump and cam, fit the belt.
You can check the flywheel later.
When rebuilding, mark the crank belt pulley and front casting permanently, with engraving, or punch marks.
Also mark the outer belt pulley with paint marks, for ease of timing TDC with the engine fully built, in future.
P.s. I checked and found my home made flywheel locking rod is 6mm.
The only reference I have stated 8mm for the 1.9 Xud, which I believe is the same Citroen tool set for all Xud.
The rod size is unimportant, as the crank pulley only has 21 teeth.