New hopefull daily!

[Dieselman]

If the pressure regulator was leaking to the point the system pressure was low, it would lose all the fluid very quickly.

The elecrovalves are the solenoids that control the stiffness regulators for the centre spheres. Spend a bit of time reviewing the videos and information in the thread viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10291

[Themasteryeti]

If the pressure regulator was leaking to the point the system pressure was low, it would lose all the fluid very quickly.

The elecrovalves are the solenoids that control the stiffness regulators for the centre spheres. Spend a bit of time reviewing the videos and information in the thread viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10291

it would seem I have some sort of leak on the front sphere valve , so would this mean a o ring has broken and is letting lhm seap out the bottom

[Themasteryeti]

Also I've been sorting the locking issue and thought I'd try for this remote receiver but I can't find anywhere to actually plug it in
Also the infrared bit isn't actually plugged into anything?

[Dieselman]

The grey box is a central locking unit, the remote receiver is in the centre of the roof console, with the orange wires leading to it.
Is that a Citroen Kiekert box, it looks like a Jaguar one.

The leak from the pressure regulator base is just a small weep, certainly not enough to cause a pressure issue.

[Themasteryeti]

The grey box is a central locking unit, the remote receiver is in the centre of the roof console, with the orange wires leading to it.
Is that a Citroen Kiekert box, it looks like a Jaguar one.

The leak from the pressure regulator base is just a small weep, certainly not enough to cause a pressure issue.

Is that what I need for the plip to work? Where do I plug it in?
A quick search of the part online come up with a citroën/peugeot Central control unit so I'd say definitely not jag

&& Well that's one thing then, I think I'll still get the three o rings for it and sort the leak so that's at least one issue sorted

When I was sorting bit on the car today I found that about half the time the I turned the engine off the front of the car would instantly sink to the floor

Plus side I managed to sort and find out where a few issues lie.
I managed to get the door handle sitting flush so it'll lock and unlock the doors properly, where the previous owner had changed the handle for some reason he didn't hook the metal return spring bit into the handle so it was pushing it out
I got the locking buttons out of the two rear doors and now one of them with lock with the rest of the car but the other side I can see a slight movement in the rod when the cars locked and unlocked but not enough to actually lock/unlock the door itself, but if I got some long nose pliers and physically pushed it up or down it would, so that one's a bit of a head scratcher
Also I tried putting the locking buttons back on the doors but I can't get them to lock onto the rod? I'll push the tab and move it to the right position then press it on but it'll still just pop off if I push it back up


I've also found out what the rattle from the exhaust was, the metal ring/coupler that goes in-between the rear mufflers is shaking in between the two joiners making the awful sound, so that'll be an easy fix


Have also notice a horrendous oil leak, looks like the sump gasket has gone and just pours oil from where the pan goes on the block, once again looks like a pretty easy fix putting a new gasket on

Then in noticing that I saw the condition of the rear lower mount and I have to say it's probably the worst condition mount I've ever seen, how on early they passed it as an advisory on its last MOT I'll never know it's hard to see in th first picture and I didn't get a very good picture of the other side but you can see the entire thing has blown out the side so I'll also order a new one of those to be pressed in

Then to add to more confusion with unplugged bits I found this plug hanging over one of the lines from the front pressure regulator, don't have a clue what it is or where it goes

And another one behind the front driver side wheel just hanging over the driveshaft, looks like the connector has been cut off and taped up. Once again I'm unsure of what is was supposed to be for and why it's in this condition

[Dieselman]

The box you have looks like a later version of the central locking unit, P# 6547 VG, which iirc, is actually working on your car when you turn the key in the door lock. It resides under the dashboard in the right footwell.
The plip in the roof console replicates turning the door lock, so trips the central locking.

Instant sinking has to be a large internal leak, so either the doseur valve is stuck partially on, or leaking internally, or one, or both electrovalves are leaking.
Firstly, check the doseur valve bell crank is very free to move and there is 9mm free play when the brakes are off. See first post in this thread. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11170

That lower mount probably should have been a fail, it's not an engine mount but a torque bushing and as it can't actually come apart could possibly gain a pass with advisory. One would need to read the wording of the latest MOT testers manual.

The first connector isn't a component, it's a connector with a blanking plug installed. Find somewhere for it to live.
The taped up wires dangling over the driveshaft are the brake pad warning loom. Nice to have working, but not imperative.

Concentrate on the hydraulic leakage, oil leak and torque bushing, before going further, as they are operational issues.

[Jan-hendrik]

quote]If the regulator cuts in and out at less than 30s intervals either the accumulator sphere is short of gas, or the system is leaking internally.

This is fairly common knowledge. Now consider this: You start the engine, the LHM pump does its work but never cuts out. Meaning the regulator does not cut out. This is how it was when my car finally returned to me after work was done to prepare it for the Japan Compulsory Inspection. The 6+2 pump was leaking, no surprise here, and not difficult to fix. The rubber to steel pipes connected to the regulator was a different story. It took a small indy 3 months to make up new pipes. No more leaks there. There seemed to have been a leak from the return of the left hand suspense cylinder which was dealt with. Don't really know how. Image my shock discovering, after some time when I replaced a fuse under the bonnet there was no clearance between the corner spheres and the scuttle lip. Closer inspection revealed the rubber on both strut tops had torn. I think there is some relation between this revelation and the unusual behavior of the PR. Any ideas are welcome.

[Dieselman]

Image my shock discovering, after some time when I replaced a fuse under the bonnet there was no clearance between the corner spheres and the scuttle lip. Closer inspection revealed the rubber on both strut tops had torn. I think there is some relation between this revelation and the unusual behavior of the PR. Any ideas are welcome.
[/quote]

I doubt there is a connection between regulator behavior and the suspension strut tops failing, not impossible, but unlikely.
the only time the strut tops are exposed to full system pressure is when the suspension is set to maximum height and has reached the bump stops. there is no more movement available so if the height corrector is still calling for fluid, it will be at full system pressure.
At all other times the pressure in the struts is equal to the mass of the car at that time.

I think the strut tops have simply failed, once one tore, the other followed. Cars fitted with anti-sink maintain the mass of the car on the struts at all times, whereas "sinkers" rest on the lower bump stops.

A heavy, hot, engine fatigues the rubber more quickly.

Good job you caught this in time.