New hopefull daily!

[Themasteryeti]

Starting at the front, working backwards;
Spare connectors are just or different equipment.

The plugged pipe, as stated by Tigerhunter, is indeed the Egr valve vacuum pipe. You may hear the pump running in the right wing.

Rubber manifold collars P/# 0362 55
Member Gasa, sealed his using worm drive clips round the top and bottom of each one.

Door locks.
Rather than drilling out the rusted grub-screw, try hammering an Allen key/torx bit in to see if it shocks it loose.

The front door lock units have an internal switch to detect lock/unlock, which turning the key barrel operates. It's possible the Unlock signal isn't being relayed to the control box, either due to duff internal contact (unlikely), poor connection at the lock unit, or more likely the door hinge connector.

The door handle not fully relaxing could be interfering with the lock operation.

The rear doors are slaves, so simply follow the front door motors. The Gnd for the rear doors is under the centre console.

The internal lock buttons have a self setting grip inside. Assuming the grip is there set it to the lower detent position, fit the button and press down, at which point it should slide upwards, grip the metal rod and set the knob height.
To remove the knob, press the detent in from the upper slot and down to the lower one, then lift the knob off.

If the knobs are jammed it will stop the lock unit operating under central locking control.

The rear wiper not functioning could be either the switch, relay, or, most likely on an estate, the wiring loom at the tailgate hinge has broken.

I believe you have the wiring diagrams, if not shout out. Due to yours being a slightly later car, it's possible some of the wiring colours will have changed and we can get the correct diagram.

I did say most Xm have been neglected, or bodged.

That's a relief about the plugs!

So with the EGR valve is there any benefit for having the hose plugged? & Should I put back in?

Rubber manifold collars now ordered! Cheers
Ordered some new glowplugs too and half the top end has to come apart anyway so thought it'd be good measure and a lot easier to install

& Fair should with giving the grub screw a bit of a hammer, I'll give that a go before drilling sometime this week

Sound like all door cards are going to have to be removed, the driver window only goes down and the previous owner ordered new cable for it so they'll get put in at some point and at the same time I can investigate the door lock and handle not going back fully, also I didn't realize the button grip has to be set which is why it probably won't stay on, might leave that till the door card come off that too as the button doesn't seem to have full travel up so I won't be able to get it back off of it goes on
The rear ones are definitely jammed down so I'm assuming door cards will also have to come off to get them off too, which isn't to drastic as the rear will have to come off anyway to find the loss of power to the door

Where would the rear wiper relay be located?
Also it looks like the previous owner tried to find this issue as the clips for the inner boot panel have all been snapped in one corner where the wiring goes

& I've now got a Haynes manual with the wiring diagrams, yet to actually dive into it to see how correct it is to my car though

Unfortunately I haven't been able to devote as much time to the car as I've hoped with two kids and various after school activities
I have done the fix to the return line though, which was fun as the front of the car wouldn't lift so I had to wedge my arm in there to hold the split hose to the pipe while it lifted them had to quickly cut the old snapped but off and put it back on while the car started to power itself again safe to say it needed A LOT of lhm to top it back up after & I'll fot the new pipes for both sides when I can get some pinch pliers to fit the funky clip that comes with them

Also the new dipstick top has turned up so that will be fitted at some point too!


&& I went to put coolant in it and it's currently only got water in it and the reservoir looks pretty rusty inside so though it'd probably be best to drain the whole system first, is there a best way to do this or would just taking the rad hose suffice?

[Themasteryeti]

Oh one other thing, after you mentioned that I need to let the glowplugs warm up before starting I've noticed that the glowplug heater light doesn't actually come on, now that might just be a dud bulb but is there a way to test if the feature is actually functioning?
But also I do still think there's a starting issue as even if I leave it for 10 seconds or so then try crank ass I get is a strater relay click and still takes a few attempts before it actually starts to crank
Admittedly I haven't delved into it enough to check the starter connection aren't all corroded so that's another thing to add to the list!

[Dieselman]

EGR wasn't implemented for engine longevity...

Glow-plugs 3&4 won't be easy to install as your car has the Bosch fuel pump. Either use a swan neck spanner that fits just right, or a crows-foot wrench driven using a square drive handle. You won't get a ratchet in there.

The electrical diagrams, including Haynes ones and relay board layout are in this thread viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268
The rear wiper relay is top-right of the relays.
It's worth you reading any thread links posted up, they contain all the information you need.

The relay board is the reverse side of the fusebox and on a Rhd Xm is a real challenge to access. the intention was that one would remove the lower dash panel, fully exposing the fuse/relay board and by removing the star washer at the left side, could then unclip the metal edge panel and lower it down. This then creates enough space for the fuse/relay board to be unclipped from the locator rod and hinged downwards, giving access to the relays on the rear side.
The problem is that on a Rhd Xm removing the lower dash panel doesn't expose the top of the fuse/relay board, so it is near on impossible to lower the unit without removing the dashboard skin.
You might just be able to reach the rear wiper relay either by reaching round from underneath, or by removing the glovebox.

The rubber leak back hose has no bearing on the car being able to raise up, it just stops Lhm leaking out from the low pressure return system.
For the retaining strap, if you don't have the click-clip pliers, use pincers, or side cutters.

The glow-plugs are fed 12v via a relay. A basic test is to use a lamp connected to the bus bar to see if there is any power.
Other tests would be to measure the current, which will be approx 48A for four plugs, or test the resistance of each plug individually.

[Themasteryeti]

EGR wasn't implemented for engine longevity...

Glow-plugs 3&4 won't be easy to install as your car has the Bosch fuel pump. Either use a swan neck spanner that fits just right, or a crows-foot wrench driven using a square drive handle. You won't get a ratchet in there.

The electrical diagrams, including Haynes ones and relay board layout are in this thread viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268
The rear wiper relay is top-right of the relays.
It's worth you reading any thread links posted up, they contain all the information you need.

The relay board is the reverse side of the fusebox and on a Rhd Xm is a real challenge to access. the intention was that one would remove the lower dash panel, fully exposing the fuse/relay board and by removing the star washer at the left side, could then unclip the metal edge panel and lower it down. This then creates enough space for the fuse/relay board to be unclipped from the locator rod and hinged downwards, giving access to the relays on the rear side.
The problem is that on a Rhd Xm removing the lower dash panel doesn't expose the top of the fuse/relay board, so it is near on impossible to lower the unit without removing the dashboard skin.
You might just be able to reach the rear wiper relay either by reaching round from underneath, or by removing the glovebox.

The rubber leak back hose has no bearing on the car being able to raise up, it just stops Lhm leaking out from the low pressure return system.
For the retaining strap, if you don't have the click-clip pliers, use pincers, or side cutters.

The glow-plugs are fed 12v via a relay. A basic test is to use a lamp connected to the bus bar to see if there is any power.
Other tests would be to measure the current, which will be approx 48A for four plugs, or test the resistance of each plug individually.

Well I'll pretend I never saw the EGR blanked off then

&& Well I plan on taking the intake off to get to replacing gaskets so hopefully that should give me more room to change the glow plugs!


& Well today I decided to take the car for it's maiden voyage! And funny enough the rear wipers decided to work now
Another sorta issue tho is the blower. Now I know it only worked on full blast and took a little while to actually turn itself on once set to it but no air actually seems to be coming out of anywhere? Like I can hear the fan going but no matter what setting I have it on I can't feel air coming out the vents
Now I know the previous owner changed the blower and I still have the old one in the boot, I'm wondering if he's got one of a xantia as I've read somewhere they blow in the opposite direction but I can't confirm if this is actually true


The other thing I noticed is the fuel pump is really loud, I can heard it pumping away in short burst as the cars running, even from inside the car and I'm not sure if this is normal or not?

But also now the cars running and driving I'll take it to work tomorrow so I can test the glow plug relay now

[Dieselman]

Xantia and Lhd Xm interior fans do rotate the wrong way for a Rhd Xm.

You need either a fan from a Rhd Xm, or Lhd Xantia.

I doubt the intermittent noise you hear is the fuel pump, much more likely to be the hydraulics pressure regulator chattering away. It's it probably cutting in and out rapidly due to the accumulator sphere being flat.

You will need to remove the intake manifold to access the glow-plugs, but still 3&4 will be a bundle of fun.

[Themasteryeti]

Xantia and Lhd Xm interior fans do rotate the wrong way for a Rhd Xm.

You need either a fan from a Rhd Xm, or Lhd Xantia.

I doubt the intermittent noise you hear is the fuel pump, much more likely to be the hydraulics pressure regulator chattering away. It's it probably cutting in and out rapidly due to the accumulator sphere being flat.

You will need to remove the intake manifold to access the glow-plugs, but still 3&4 will be a bundle of fun.

I think I'll put the old one back in them and replace the blower transistor control module and see if that works!


&& What do you mean by it being flat?
Would that be why it takes so long for the suspension to raise up? Had to wait 3/4 minutes for the front to go up, back doesn't take anywhere near as long but takes longer than expected still. Also if I set the hight to the lowest the front drops like instantly and the back slowly drops down

Also I've noticed this plug just dangling about? I take it it's a throttle position sensor, I cant seem to find where it plugs into tho


But another successful drive to work today, the rattle in the exhaust is a bit irritating, I'll try take a look at that tomorrow & glow plug light did actually come on this morning, still have to crank it over quite a lot till it actually starts running though, even then I'll have to give it a bit of throttle as it starts up or it'll just cut out, then it'll idle lovely
New clutch for my Volvo 480s has turned up tho so that's gonna have to take priority unfortunately

[Themasteryeti]

While waiting for tires to be fitted to the car this morning I've noticed the hydraulic light is on indicating a pressure issue which I'd say confirms what you say

So if sphere needs sorting out how can I tell which one is the issue one?
I'm guessing ones of the front three as the front is very slow with raising, would It be best just to replace & would a replacement come pre gassed or would I have to send it off to be filled?

[Themasteryeti]

Another thing to add now I've done more looking online, my car will sink back to the lowest hight when left overnight, aparently these should sink when left?

[Dieselman]

Your car is a sinker, so expect it to.

The hydraulic warning light can indicate either pressure or the reservoir level. The level is easy to check: raise the car to Max and observe the orange mushroom in the sight glass, which should be between the two red rings.

It would be unusual for the system to not create pressure, unless there is air being drawn into the suction pipe between the reservoir and pump. Check the hose is tight on the spigots, by attempting to twist it.

If the regulator cuts in and out at less than 30s intervals either the accumulator sphere is short of gas, or the system is leaking internally. the brake "doseur valve" is the most common reason for internal leakage, possibly due to a partially seized bell crank stopping the valve returning to fully off.

the connector you queried is the accelerator lever sensor for the Egr valve, which only operates at idle/low fuelling conditions.

[TigerHunter]

The first thing I would do is lower the car to the minimum height, detach the hydraulic oil tubes from the LHM reservoir, remove it and wash it well with gasoline. There are two filters to clean. Before reattaching the houses is important to try and fill the hose that feeds the pump.
The appropriate moment to change the LHM fluid. The system needs approximately 4 liters of LHM.
The next step would be cleaning the height correctors.
As Dieselman says above your car does not have an anti sink valve and relative sphere. So it's a "sinker".
Also you have a single circuit hydraulic pump. So the suspension should react very quickly.

PS: The EGR should open also when driving on constant speed at low regimes. It has entirely ecological purpouse.
I wouldn't reattach the vacuum house.
It's important though the EGR valve is completely closed. Otherwise you would lose power.
When you remove the intake. Clean it well internally.

PS2: Does your car have an DIRAVI steering rake?

PS3: The spheres have nothing to do with the hydraulic pressure or the rising of the car.
The car must be soft on all four angles and one should be able to lower it by hand. If a sphere is low on pressure or with broken membrane The car runs rough on the respective angle.
When a membrane breaks , the sphere fills up with LHM entirely and the hydraulic circuit loses approximately 400 ml of LHM.