Citroen XM Forum

What is the spec of the car and is it manual or auto?

Just a thought, thinking back to the day when I had a Triumph 2000 TC A mk 1, that use to keep blowing casket heads, after a year off repairing and trying different things to try and cure it, it had turned out to be one stud bold, the raise flat part of the bolt was a faction longer than it should off been leaving a fraction loser than it should off been.
So what I am saying check the bolts are all the same, (get new ones and still check them) only takes that small faction to long for it to give a false torte reading. you can get thicker caskets too that would help you out.

Hi all!

I have bought this poorly XM and I'm hoping to repair it.

When left idling the temperature gauge sits around 1/4 but if the revs are held at 3000k the needle quickly goes up to 1/2, but doesn't go any further than that. The hoses go "hard" as the engine warms up but can still be compressed a bit between my thumb and forefinger when hot. I can leave it running for 30+ mins without overheating. The heater fan also just blows cold air, although after 20 mins it finally became hot. No mixing of fluids and no apparent coolant in the exhaust.

Air seems to be escaping from the expansion tank overflow when the engine is hot, a constant hissing and jet of faint steam, if I remove the cap after 5 mins of running it spits lots of hot water out. With the cap removed and the water topped up there doesn't seem to be the usual "Jacuzzi" of exhaust gas bubbles.

Could this be a mega air lock somewhere? the cold heater blowers are maybe a clue. I suspect it's a "minor" leak of exhaust gases into the coolant.. so HG time.

Id say hg tim... they should not get that bad....

I vote HG too I'm afraid Tim. Sorry...

Yep, thought as much. I guess a minor blow is the same as a major one. Off with it's head!

I've heard lots of horror stories about these... but it doesn't look too bad, maybe drop the front of the engine to improve access to the head and rear of the engine.

I have done one, not all that difficult but long and laborious. I think the most difficult job was detaching the turbo feed and drain pipes, I took the manifold and turbo off with the head as I couldn't get to the Bolts, you need to move the engine as far forward as possible to access the rear of the head, which is heavy and awkward to lift so you will need some assistance. I think Paul managed to get the manifold off one he did, I suspect he will be along with some assistance.

Make sure you replace the gasket with a steel laminated one, looks like a set of feeler gauges, they may be the only ones they make now but I had an option. The car carried on quite happily for another 60,000 miles on the new gasket, until my wife wrapped it round a bus shelter.

Peter

Owch, hope your wife was OK!

This car has done something like 98k so hopefully things won't be as corroded as a higher mileage engine.. although that's possibly just wishful thinking.

Get the head professionally checked - this should cover a check on flatness, porosity and cracks, all of which will not usually be visible to the naked eye. Get skimmed if necessary. Not expensive, and worth the effort.

Early gasket failure is generally due to insufficient antifreeze/inhibitor so make sure you put plenty in. Wife was OK thanks which is more than can be said for the car, first accident she has had in about 45 years but she made a good job of it.

Peter