Citroen XM Forum

Dear all, as per the for sale forum I have decided to keep my XM.

I have a new exhaust manifold gasket to fit. There is a blow from the existing one that makes it sound like the tappets are clicking. slight blow now as well and the mix is causing the ecu light to come on with the fuel consumption issues related.

Question is - how do I fit it - my hayes manual for the XM is useless - most Hayes manuals for post '90 cars seem to be!

can anyone advise - straight forward removal but I need to know if ther is anything XM specific - eg does it require any gasket paste etc?

help would be appreciated

Also - windows - the drivers window is off it's runners - I suspect the previous owner had replaced the moving bits with the kit avaliable on ebay but I suspect he fitted it incorrectly - any suggestions? I am tempted to give it to the specialist to sort as window repairs are usually awful jobs.

I have had no experience whatsoever of petrol engines but looking in the book it looks similar to the 2.1 diesel, which is a pig to get at. You need to be able to lean the engine forward to gain access to the manifold bolts. Paul would be the one to tell you, I expect he will be along in a minute.

Peter

Hi,Scooters

scooters wrote:
Also - windows - the drivers window is off it's runners - I suspect the previous owner had replaced the moving bits with the kit available on ebay but I suspect he fitted it incorrectly - any suggestions? I am tempted to give it to the specialist to sort as window repairs are usually awful jobs.

As your XM is a S2 VSX it will probably have the one-touch up/down type window mechanism on it but which type ?

There are two type of plug/connectors used unfortunately even though there both have a 9 pin connectors block !
One type has a red push/pull cam-lock type connector which makes it easier to connect/disconnect and the other plug connector is Black with one of those fiddly S/S clip affairs to hold the plug connector to socket on the motor!

So I strongly recommend that first you read thro' THIS forum link INCLUDING ALL the other links within that thread to understand and decipher which type of motor /regulator unit you have and then report back with your findings (Dependent on which type you have I may be able to help you) As you've been working in that area of the car (door-card area) I suppose that's why you've lost the handle surround, but I see Peter has offered you one now !

I hope the above may be of help to you.
XMX

I need to do this job on a a similarly engined Xantia (the Activa actually has less space than the Xm!!).
Comments here by Robert/Paul/Dean:

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 63&p=10415

I have replaced a manifold on a normally aspirated 2.0i without altering the mounts on the engine
but the addition of a turbo will make that highly unlikely. The main downpipe dropping off the manifold
can be undone and the exhaust can then be dropped away although care will be needed to watch the
driveshafts don't get pulled around and unnecessary strain applied on the gearbox mounting.

Andrew

Hi

Im at work right now but i have to say quickly, NO exhaust sealer or paste upstream of the cat, just the gasket and clean mating surfaces, Paul should be about to tell you how its done but if not i will post up a rather helpfull rear view of the TCT engine and a rough how to tonight.

D

here is a picture of the back of the engine

As you can see from the picture, all the flow/return coolant and oil pipes are flexible exept the oil return pipe at the bottom of the picture.
heres a close up,

this will have to be removed from below (the others can stay attached if you are just moving the turbo clear enough to get the manifold off)
It just pulls out of the block

the boost pipping will have to come off allong with the alloy turbo inlet mounted above the cam cover.

The exaust will have to be disconnected from the turbo which will more than likely involve cutting the two fixing bolts

Can you see the hacksaw?
Heres a close up

new bolts, springs and washers can be bought in a kit with a new doughnut washer for around £15 from any parts store, its called a 'cat fitting kit'

The turbo mounting bracket will have to be unbolted from the engine so the turbo can be undone from the manifold and swung back clear enough to remove the and replace the manifold gasket.



The job involves access from both above and below the car
As you can imagine all this is best done with the o/s driveshaft removed as it gives you much more room to work with from below.
Dont let the turbo strain on its oil feed and coolant pipes if you leave them attached
It is a much easier job if you can take off the o/s engine mount and rock the engine forward an inch or so.
No paste or sealant of any type to be used upsteam of the cat.

Thats a quick skirting over the major bits, im in the middle of cleaning out the cavities in the living room at the moment so a bit rushed, im sure Paul can add to this and give further advise.

D

Thats very good Dean, a fresh reminder here while this turbo unit is out of my Onyx ,waiting to go back in..

In situ, its not a bad thing, the nuts used are not hex nuts but a Star endge nut, the brakets need removing all together, removing the water drain connection from the underside of the turbo is a RIGHT PAIN to put back, but if you are replacing the gasket and NOT actually removing the unit theres no need to take it off..

Theres two right SODS to get at in the middle of the manifold.. the besy hope is that you hope the studs come out with the nuts, this then prohibs the need to move the turbo right down the studs.. infact, it wont slide down that far, so you to double up nuts to remove the studs..

Gaining more room? Yes, remove the top engine mount, ALSO remove the can cover, this gains a bit more viewing - you may obviously get oily, but worth the extra space..

Dean, a shot of the lower row of Turbo studs would be handy - if you've not got one, ill get one tomorrow..

Paul

The awfull bad news which no one has told you yet, are you sure its the manifold thats blowing??? I Beleve the exhaust manifolds are common for cracking!!

Ive got a couple of - no possibly one spare now as I think I sold one, manifolds if it turns out to be a cracked manifold ... Luckily, the turbo AND Manifolds ARE removable with the engine in place...

REgards
Paul

No Paul i dont have one from that angle, probably quicker if you did the honours and took one.
getting that bracket off the turbo is a pita, they are bound to be siezed too....Good luck

Paul N/a manifolds are the worst for cracking, the blow could of course be the doughnut seal...... it a long shot but again much easier.

D

hello all, thanks for this comprehensive guide - now i am pretty sure it is the manifold gasket that is blowing - the car has been into a specialist with the previous owner as he suspected tappets - the specialist diagnosed it as a blowinfg gasket. Given my time pressures in the next few weeks I think i will put the car into a specialist to have this sorted and bote the bullet cost wise. With the windows, the abs issue and this blow i am wincing at spending the sharp end of £1k on addressing these niggles. XM is a truly wonderful machine but...and this is an issue with most modern cars - the access to bits of the engine can be a flippin nightmare!

I will be doing 1000 miles in the XM this week - any reasons why this might be a bad idea with the gasket issue - is there a chance i could screw somwthing else up?

much appreciated

Richard