A different challenge...Not an Xm...but of course, a non-runner.

[Dieselman]

I noticed the trigger pin of the connector was bent over on the lower (A bank) coil, but after straightening it still wouldn't produce a spark.

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I removed both coils for isolated testing: to remove the coils you need to remove the accelerator equaliser pivot.

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I connected an HT lead and spark plug, connected a fly-lead to the B bank trigger/tachometer output at the diagnostic socket, disconnected both ignition amplifiers to ensure they couldn't be damaged by a back Emf spike, ensured the +ve coil terminal had good battery voltage and dragged the fly-lead over the intake manifold casting. The fly-lead was definitely making and breaking contact, demonstrated by the flashes it was making, but alas no spark produced by the coil, either to a spark plug, or an Allen key wedged into the high voltage output terminal and held very close to the engine. A direct connection like this should allow a spark to jump 15mm (30Kv), with a strong, blue spark being produced.
A weak spark will be blown out by the compression of the air when the engine is under compression.

One coil shows open circuit on the secondary winding, the other meters normally but produces no spark, so new ones are on order, Jaguar DAC4608/Marelli BEAQ012.

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So I could permanently consider the crank sensor issues resolved I moved onto checking the ignition Ecu is receiving the correct timing signals from the new crank sensor.

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After confirming both coils were U/s I reconnected the ignition amplifiers and connected a low wattage (0.8W) test lamp between the coil negative/trigger terminal and Gnd, cranked the engine and observed the individual spark timings make the test lamp blink on/off.
Interestingly the two coils produced different flickering, one was a definite on/off flicker, the other just dimmed the lamp instead of flickering completely off.

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The new crank sensor bracket showing how a pocket had to be cut to allow the rear of the sensor to be located 10mm from the front of the timing case and the sensor to be centered on the timing fingers of the pulley and spaced in spec of 0.48-1mm clearance.

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For the engine to fire it needs ignition and fuel, but even though I couldn't produce a spark I wanted to check the fuel injectors were firing, though I could smell fuel from the exhausts.
Connecting a test lamp at the injector loom showed they were being triggered by the Ecu. The injectors are fed with Ign switched +ve and the Ecu shunts this to Gnd to energise the injector. These injectors are batch fired in four groups of three, so it's only necessary to test each group.
Having tapped into the injector loom I noticed the lamp was only dimming so decided to disconnect the ballast resistor pack, which then also made a convenient point to connect to.
The lamp then had definitive on/off flashes when the Ecu pulsed the injectors. This confirmed the Efi Ecu was receiving the timing pulse from the ignition module, is operating and required no further investigation.

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As the radiator and gearbox oil cooler are missing I connected the cooler pipes together with hose to avoid any further spillage of Atf.

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Am now awaiting the new ignition coils and a EAC4864 fuel pressure regulator...

For info; the inlet EBC2606 fuel pressure regulator is just acting as a pulsation damper, only necessary due to the injectors being batch fired, which due to sudden demand on the reserve of fuel, causes pulsations and uneven flow, so the damper is installed to act as a small reserve/accumulator.
Injectors operating in sequential system don't need a damper due to each injector only having a small demand on the volume of pressurised fuel.