2.0 8V bottom end rebuild (by idiots)

[Dieselman]

Cleaning the filters has been on my agenda but it's hot as heck outside and my wife occupies the garage.

Tell your Wife to either move back into the house, or buy a tent.

[Dieselman]

It definitely feels like the cable isn't actually connected as the rotary spins so loosely I didn't even know it was cable operated!

Pull the knob straight off using flat pliers and a rag/bit of rubber, as a cushion. A good grip and quick tug is the best way.
The knobs are held onto the D shaft with a small flat spring clip, which may be missing, or the knob shank be broken which is common, due to being acrylic.
If broken, cut a grove all the way round the circumference and stick it back together using a wire, or strong thread, as reinforcement.

[eyesoreracing]

As your car has rotary heater controls the airflow direction is cable operated. Check the cable is actually connected, the outer sheath is clipped securely and the flaps inside the heater box can move freely.
The A/c issue is most likely the switch is sticky, a strip and clean may sort it.

If the flaps are jammed you have this joy to look forward to. See thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6292&hilit=heater+flaps

Oh my god, that link was horrifying!

I've been driving the car daily for a couple of weeks and the A/C works well when vehicle speed is high, but is basically useless when speeds are low. Radiator fans are running when the A/C is on, but are not very strong. But just when I was about to start checking voltage at the fan relay a new problem occured. There was a sudden THUMP noise under the dash, and the vents immediately went from full cold to full hot! The blend door actuator broke or fell off.

We need to figure out how to get down to this blend door and see what happened, but if that means removing the whole dash I might just light a match and run!