Citroen XM Forum

russ92xmsed wrote:KBAN is looking fantastic.
Chris did mention he regulary undersealed it. It looks okay. Usual spare wheel carrier trying it's hardest to dissolve!

Where's Jim when you need him... (Mod on FCF) He is an expert at Lucas fuel pumps.

Thanks Russ... She hasn't been washed since 12th November!

The small leak off pipe isn't the one that can cause runaway, it is the boost controller it is attached to. There is another, larger pipe which takes intake boost to the compensator from the inter-cooler. if the compensator diaphragm leaks fuel is pushed into the intake tract, causing the engine to run away.

I'm amazed the pump still has the accelerator damper fitted, they normally start jamming and cause heavy accelerator pedal feel.

Thanks Diesleman, so I need to look for the pipe coming from the intercooler to the fuel pump? But saying that... I'm not going to be able to repair the diaphragm, or indeed replace it, so I think pump off and send away for refurbish.

You can probably obtain a diaphragm from a diesel specialist. Darwen Diesels are pretty helpful.

Thank You

Looks gorgeous. I am coming round to the view that they are the best wheels...

This is the Lucas DPC injection pump. The boost android is the bit sticking out of the front side low down with an adjustment screw mounted centrally.

Looking at that picture of the injection pump, I'm ashamed to see that is the black wire on the stop solenoid that I bodged, ie wrapped round the stud, after the loom fried on the M25. I think there is a choc block to what was left of the loom, all done at my destination the morning after. I've got that many crimp ring terminals I could start a shop, and I left it like that? I also bought the copex with a slit along its length with a view to rebuilding the loom and protecting it unlike the original. I like those wheels too, looking forward to buying it back from Ray when it is finished.

If you do take the pump off, the timing belt has done few miles but obviously some years, tensioner was new just because I felt the old one must be getting on at near 250k miles.

The rubber bellows on the switch that operates the cold engine electrical whatever it does, that's been gone for a long time but the switch is (was) working fine all the same.

Chris

Your choice Ray, but as long as it remains in good condition it would be great to keep that original rear plate fitted by the supplying dealer. Yellow screw caps (and screws) could just do with changing. I always used a GB sticker on the back window rather than change the plate for one with GB for that reason. More random thoughts from a 22 year relationship.

CJS wrote:
The rubber bellows on the switch that operates the cold engine electrical whatever it does, that's been gone for a long time but the switch is (was) working fine all the same.

Chris

That is the cold ignition advance switch. The plastic always deteriorates and falls off.