1995 2.1td SX Auto Project

[josh2109]

Next up I wanted to sort out the paint. Most of the lacquer was hazy, it had a lot of scuffs and scratches too. I'm no expert on detailing (it's rare I was my cars more than once every year or so), but I thought I could probably do something with it.

These photos illustrate some of thi problems with the paint, this is after washing it thoroughly and so is not dirt, it's damage to the lacquer itself. In places there is also primer overspray, it looks like something was painted against it whilst it was sotred in the barn.

















I went panel by panel, going over with clay first and then compound on a buffer. It did a good job of working back to better lacquer.





the compound left some residue and swirling, but here is my first test panel going over with polish. I was really pleased with the result, it tidied up what was left over from the compounding without any trouble.



Then I just worked my way round the rest of the car.

I have to say, I think the Emerald paint colour is just absolutely stunning.



















The last thing left to do was to wax it, in an attempt to seal the shine in and make cleaning easier in the short term.



Of course, there's a limit to what you can reasonably 'fix' and so there are lots of imperfections left. However, I think it looks several times better than before and I'm really pleased with how it came out. That shine does take your eye off the imperfections, and it's come out far better than I ever thought it had the potential to.

In terms of cleaning the outside, the only major job left is to sort out the black trim pieces.

[josh2109]

The last job for the weekend was to replace the bulb in the gear indicator and the bulbs in the clock.

It was not fun.



The silver lining was that I was able to clean everything as I went, and get the years of dust out of the trim.

Replacing the gear indicator bulb was particularly fiddly.







It did result in the displays working again though, which is a result.



The gear indicator initially was not reading out correctly, however after learning how the position switch works I gave working the switch repeatedly a go... It's worked to an extent, initially the indicator would only read out either P or N randomly over the gears. Now it reads out all the gears correctly bar reverse, which still shows as P.

As for the right hand display, the clock works but I need a new temp sensor.



At least the car feels more 'together', with working displays. I did discover that I don't have a left hand display in my car, which is a shame but also one less thing to go wrong I guess.

I've taxed the car today and started driving it. One thing that's a bit disappoining is that the suspension is far too stiff and the ride is uncomfortable, that requires further investigation. I'm slowly getting there though.

My current snagging list then:

• Temp sensor needs replacing

• Hard ride needs investigating. I've noticed that the hydractive light doesn't illuminate on start, but does illuminate when in sport mode. When opening and closing doors I hear relays clunking, and I hear humming from the front and rear axles so something is trying to work. I'll try and pull codes from the diagnostic port, I'm hoping the ECU isn't borked. I'm also hoping I don't have a full set of knackered spheres

• The alarm sounds randomly at times, and can't be turned off

• The boot doesn't lock on the central locking, but I can't remember if it was me who caused that after getting locked out one time

• I need to figure out a way of neatening up the gear shifter

• I need to replace the seal on the throttle shaft, as it's weeping and causing hard starting

• The sunroof is jammed shut, and with no air conditioning I feel like it would be helpful if it worked

• The central seat belt won't pull out, it's locked in place fully retracted

• I nened to replace the rear tyres, put a tyre on the spare wheel and but the jack etc. back in it

I'm sure there's other bits, but that's enough for now!

[josh2109]

Never a less appropriately named car than a Pontiac Trans Sport.

Why do you have so many left hookers? Is that a business venture?

It's a slow old bus, but it has the GM 3800 V6 which whilst very lazy, has that distinctly 'unburstable' feeling of under-stressed American engines.

As for having so many left hookers, I didn't specifically go looking for them but I don't discount cars for being LHD - I'm happy driving either. These cars were just ones that happened to present themselves and I fancied buying them, most of the other stuff we have is RHD. We have about 22 or 23 cars knocking around at the moment

There was a vague justification with the Trans Sport in that we were travelling abroad a lot in the last few years, and with two kids and two big dogs in tow I thought a LHD people carrier wuldn't be a bad shout, so long as you ignore the hideous late 80's/early 90's levels of safety:

[DownUnderXM]

Great job on the paintwork - I agree about the Emerald Green - a superb colour!

Since you can hear the electrovalves "singing" I would be pretty confident that the electronic side of the hydractive system is fine. Far more likely that you have flat spheres.

Here's a couple of online sphere shops - both sell IFHS which are a good option.

https://www.sphere-discount.com/gb/
https://www.spheres-neuves.com

Changing spheres will make you a "real" Citroen owner. Mechanically an XM is very similar to a Peugeot 605 - it's the spheres (and the rest of the hydraulic system) that make it a Citroen !

[Dieselman]

Quite a read there Josh, you have been productive.

Does your MOT station think you are just a bit rushed, or having a laugh, keep going back with the same faults...

The rust areas are pretty typical for an XM, though as you found, the hydraulics are rarely an issue: one loose union and off you went.
For info, ty-wraps will hold the steering gaiters on readily.

I agree with DownUnderXm, if the electro-valves are clicking then the ride quality issue is almost certainly the spheres are short of gas, or ruptured.
It's common for people to never change the centre spheres as it means going under the car.
You really need to now the state of the spheres, either pressure test them, or replace.

You could install a tell-tale LED, or low wattage lamp to be able to monitor the electrovalve power, as it could be the power drops off so the valves close again after initially opening. I note the blown diode in the Ecu.
I'm led to believe that AEP in Glasgow still sell IFHS spheres, but they are not on their website. Tel: 0141 647 0800

The lack of Sport lamp on Ign on tells you the Ecu has a stored fault code.

The gear selector display bulb can be replaced by unclipping the bulb holder through the small hole in the circuit board, no need to dismantle the display.

Is the rest position of the wipers too high?

You've made a great job of cleaning that car up, Emerald really is a good colour.
Paint the window upright guides satin black for the band of glass look, give the sidelamps a rub with some wet n' dry then polish and no one will think that is a 29 year old, 260,000 mile car.

Importantly, it's back on the road after a ten year layup...well done.

[josh2109]

They were alright at the station - I took lots of cakes and donuts, and they were happy to chat so I could fill them in on what had gone wrong. The problem I had was I would get it to a point that on the driveway it wasn't having problems, but would then throw a new leak once driven. The only proper cock up was the rack gaiter on the wrong side, and I apologised and they weren't fussed. I take quite a few cars in to them, and nothing has ever caused the level of grief that the XM has - it really didn't like being woken from its slumber.

I gave ty-wraps a go but they wouldn't hold the inboard end of the n/s gaiter. They sorted everything else though.

I've been using the car for commuting since I taxed it this week, happily enough it hasn't developed any new leaks so I think we are out of the woods on that front.

It's a handsome old thing, in my opinion.



I did some diag work on the ECU. Flashing codes from it gave me the following, in this order:

12 - Start test
23 - Steering wheel position sensor
24 - Vehicle speed sensor
31 - Electrovalve firm/soft suspension
32 - Back electrovalve firm/soft suspension
21 - Brake pressure switch
53 - ECU power supply
25 - Vehicle height sensor
54 - ECU malfunction
11 - End test

Nearly the full house.

The codes won't clear either. I suspect I need to sort that large diode in the ECU, and that I potentially have a wiring problem somewhere.

I will probably look to run some LED's into the cabin for diagnostic purposes.

If you remember at the start of the thread, I had sme real trouble with the wipers. The park position is a couple of degrees out at present, I will tweak it at some point but it needs to be done at the linkage end.

[Julianw]

'It's a handsome old thing, in my opinion.'

Totally agree - i can't stop looking at that last pic of it, since you polished it. It looks absolutely magnificent! The work you've done on the body crowns all your other work. Well done!

[Dieselman]

'It's a handsome old thing, in my opinion.'

Totally agree - i can't stop looking at that last pic of it, since you polished it. It looks absolutely magnificent! The work you've done on the body crowns all your other work. Well done!

Apart from the sidelamps and window glazing bars. It looks great, might as well get it absolutely stunning.

@Josh.

A good result overall, just keep using it now.

Clearing the fault codes can be a tricky process to learn but they usually clear after a 15 second reset.
It looks like you might be missing the 5v output to feed the sensors.
Obtaining an h4 Ecu probably wouldn't be difficult, or costly, if necessary.
Example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284884808343 ... 3Bchoc%3A2

I do recall the wipers issue, the one with the longer initial arm goes on the drivers side, which I believe you have. I think they just need dropping down a little.

As far as ty-wraps for the steering gaiters, I use 2mm ones, or the ones that come in the box with a gaiter, and have never had an issue. I even ty-wrap the plastic clip on ones, for surety, as they can come off at the first full stretch, before relaxing.
Ty-wraps are convenient, otherwise a lock wire wrapped round and twisted to tighten it would do.

[josh2109]

A litle bit more work has been done on the car lately.

First up was the lack of Hydractive light on startup, and a firmer than expected ride.



I think I posted previously that I couldn't clear the codes down from the ECU memory.

To cut a long story short, I replaced the main diode plus I did the diode mod for the solenoids.



I then got this welcome sight:



Along with a softer ride, which is a result.

Since sorting that, I've also replaced the glow plugs as I had some slow starting issues, and I replaced the leaking throttle shaft seal plus top cover gasket on the fuel pump.

I now have no leaks from the pump, which is great.

However, my slow starting remains. I have found that the starting improves with the fuel screw wound in. With the screw wound into the 'anti-tamper' collar, the car starts reliably. However, it then idles at about 1100rpm. Adusting the warm/cold idle screws has no effect on the idle. Backing the fuelling screw out to a point where the idle is sensible (approx 900rpm) but then the starting is poor.

I suspect I need to adjust the pump timing as a result of having swapped the pumps over. I've heard talk of this being done with an assistant whilst the engine is running, can the timing be gotten close enough this way?

As always, any thoughts and guidance appreciated.

[Dieselman]

Good result on the Hydractive, that tell tale lamp is a good guide to system issues. You will now be able to waft along as intended.
I sometimes drive a road that has recently had full width speed humps installed and the limit reduced to 30mph from Nsl. Cars are slowing to 20-25mph and bobbing up and down the speed humps, but at 30 Mph, in the Xm, they might as well not be there. I've occasionally looked in the mirror to check I did actually just drive over one.

Good move adding the protection diodes internally, a very worthwhile mod. Perhaps mark the Ecu to show those diodes have been added internally.

Regarding the pump, I wonder if the fuelling screw O ring is leaking in air when adjusted to give the correct idle fuelling.
Don't forget the idle fuelling is a combination of the fuelling screw and accelerator lever, so maybe the lever stop is set too slow.

Not sure why you would need two people to set the pump timing. The correct method is by using a dial gauge screwed into the high pressure head, but you could just move the pump ensuring there is no knocking.

Another method would be to use the appropriate injector pipe as a spill pipe. Face the pipe upwards but the end being downwards into a container, turn the engine forwards until the pipe is full then when the engine is turned the fuel spills into the container.
When the fuel starts to spill is when the start of injection is reached. That is the timing point.

Before adjusting the timing ensure the idle/fast idle lever is free to move and set to the slowest speed and the advance lever is also free to move and can relax to the retarded position.
The timing is advanced for cold start and retards back to the base timing as the engine warms.

It's good to see your Xm receiving the attention needed to bring it back to full functioning. Once sorted they are generally reliable, ultra comfortable, car to motor round in.