Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
Sad day, got the update from the garage. Rotten. Floors where the subframe joins are rotted out. Rot all the way up from the jacking points, strut(?) towers can be pierced with a screwdriver. Garage deems it "not worth it" to repair. It's a shame because the only other major problems are the hydraulic leak and a small engine oil leak.
1992 2.1 TD Estate, in green
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
Pretty normal stuff on an Xm, but you have to decide whether to either fix it yourself, pay for it to be done, dispose of, or break it down.
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
Do you have any pics of how bad it is? Breaks are so rare that I would personally try to save them.
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
Don't have the skills for the first, got little budget for the second, I'd like to avoid the 3rd and 4th at all costs.
I'll be getting some once I go back down to collect itFlegmaatikko wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 10:48 amDo you have any pics of how bad it is? Breaks are so rare that I would personally try to save them.
I think I'll end up putting it in dry storage so it doesn't get worse, and start putting *more* money aside.
1992 2.1 TD Estate, in green
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
If you have some space, buy a welder and some metal and start your journey.
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
I actually do have an old arc welder, but pretty much anyone I talked to said you need a mig for car panels. I'll look into it again, I do even have another victim- I mean, project car that I could practice on (lada niva if curious)
1992 2.1 TD Estate, in green
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
Car panels can be welded using arc if you are patient and use very low current, but Mig is much, much, easier.
Many years ago, I welded new sills and floors into a very rotten Mini 1275GT using a cheap buzz-box Arc welder. It was strong enough to pass an MOT and probably saved my life two days later, when my friend crashed it heavily. The collapsing of the front stopped when it reached the new metal.
You could convert the Arc to Tig by adding a gas delivery kit.
Many years ago, I welded new sills and floors into a very rotten Mini 1275GT using a cheap buzz-box Arc welder. It was strong enough to pass an MOT and probably saved my life two days later, when my friend crashed it heavily. The collapsing of the front stopped when it reached the new metal.
You could convert the Arc to Tig by adding a gas delivery kit.
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
All the garages around me are booked for months, so the rust work will need to wait (unless I manage to get some practice in with the welder). I might as well try to get some of the electrical working.
A quick question about brakes: If I disconnect (and cap off) the rear brake line at that 8-pipe union on the firewall, will this cause issues (other than no rear brakes, which leak anyway)? I'd like to be able to move the car around without loosing fluid all the time.
Is the door and window control module(s) in under the dash on the driver's side, or somewhere else? I've read the sunroof can be closed manually, but can it be opened that way too?
A quick question about brakes: If I disconnect (and cap off) the rear brake line at that 8-pipe union on the firewall, will this cause issues (other than no rear brakes, which leak anyway)? I'd like to be able to move the car around without loosing fluid all the time.
Is the door and window control module(s) in under the dash on the driver's side, or somewhere else? I've read the sunroof can be closed manually, but can it be opened that way too?
1992 2.1 TD Estate, in green
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Re: Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]
The four pipe union has a feed from the main circuit, a feed to the front brakes, a feed from the rear suspension and a feed to the rear brakes.gwolfski wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2024 6:16 pmAll the garages around me are booked for months, so the rust work will need to wait (unless I manage to get some practice in with the welder). I might as well try to get some of the electrical working.
A quick question about brakes: If I disconnect (and cap off) the rear brake line at that 8-pipe union on the firewall, will this cause issues (other than no rear brakes, which leak anyway)? I'd like to be able to move the car around without loosing fluid all the time.
Is the door and window control module(s) in under the dash on the driver's side, or somewhere else? I've read the sunroof can be closed manually, but can it be opened that way too?
If your leak is only when the brakes are actually being applied and from the rear pipework, then capping off the appropriate union will leave the rest of the system functioning, including front brakes.
Check the route of the pipe and cap off the appropriate union.
The central locking module is under the r/h dashboard, the window one shot relay is in the drivers door card.
The remote plip receiver is in the interior lights console.
The sunroof can be operated by a manual crank inserted into the drive gear. The crank should be under the mat in the glovebox, but any correct allen key will do.
There is a rod to release the drive clutch from the motor, buried in the sunroof wiring. see attachment.
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