Gold 2.0Si

[Dieselman]

I'll bring it to Wetherby

[Eddie nuff]

I had thought that the hit and miss starting had been down to the battery not getting a decent charge through not going anywhere. After Wetherby she got another run out on the Monday, sat Tuesday, started her up Wednesday morning but she wouldn't start in the afternoon due to the battery being dead. The battery only took 2.5hrs to charge from 6 down to 1 therefore setting me thinking this was not necessarily a battery problem.

I had the battery tested at a mates, a grease monkey who I've known years, to find that it was in very good condition. The problem seems to be the alternator. On idle it shows 10 amps, put all the electrics on and the needle flicks up and down whilst dropping slowly all the time until it eventually reaches zero. When the car is revved constantly the needle flicks wildly and drops to zero immediately the revs are taken off whether the electrics are on or not.

[Dieselman]

Are the connections and wiring good?

[Eddie nuff]

They seem good but will probably be best to take them off and clean them up.

[normantilbury]

Hi Eddie,
Sounds like the brushes have worn out or are stuck in place, there is a thread on here about it.

Regards,
Norman

[Eddie nuff]

I know it's been three weeks since an update but work keeps getting in the way of enjoyment.

The car's only been out of the garage 3 times in that period, the latter being on Wednesday when Paul and his mate Alan came over to finally bring the plastic ducting
He, of course, had a good nosey at Goldie and a few bits of advice for her upkeep. The curiosity at the moment is the loss of power from the battery. Seems the battery and the alternator are doing their job but once the engine is switched off the drain from the battery is such that in less than 20 minutes the battery is dead. I've ordered a multimeter and will be able to check when it arrives.

I fitted the duct that afternoon, leaned through the window to start it and though it tried it wouldn't start. Sat in the car pressed the loud pedal as I turned the key and she started but would only run with constant use of the accelerator. Hmmm! Then it started to sling it down and the end of my day playing. I've had chance this afternoon to have a good look and the theory is that the ducting had been damaged and badly repaired, and then because the car wouldn't run they've messed about with the settings on the AFM and the throttle body. What a pain it was to get it to idle, especially as the valve cover at the front right of the throttle body was found to have a small cut in it. A quick repair and a new circlip made a much better seal on the valve. The car now ticks over at approx 875rpm and drives really well. It also sounds a lot quieter than before.

I fitted two new door speakers so that the original radio now sounds superb, and the proper gearknob from a Xantia S1 - what a difference that makes!

Need to sort the battery drain, four grommets for the scuttle, and the headlining - and we're done!

[Dieselman]

Sounds like a good days work, there Neil.

Today I managed to drive the car and tear a mudflap off. All in, somewhat less productive than your day.

[citroenxm]

Ahh, you found a gear knob? I needent of started breaking the Red XM D base car then.. ho hum. never mind...

Do you want me to send this altinator to you, OR I could send it to the Wirral on Monday with Alan..??

[Eddie nuff]

No need. I'll collect it next month, thanks.

[Eddie nuff]

Need to sort the battery drain, four grommets for the scuttle, and the headlining - and we're done!

I tell a lie. I do have a glovebox catch to fit but I'm waiting until some kind soul donates a glovebox strut so I can do both at the same time.

When I say we're done I mean as far as the restoration is concerned. There are other jobs that need doing but I class them as part of the pleasure(?) of owning a 23 year old car.

The rear brakes are going to need a full reline. The pads are low, the discs are poor and the bleed nipple looks as though it hasn't been touched since the car came off the production line. Now I know how to lower the rear subframe properly that's a job that needs doing to see what state the wiring and piping is that runs over the subframe. The rear end in general needs a rub down, some rust protector and underseal, but both of those jobs can wait until later in the year.