XM V6 Sei finally going for restoration

[Citjon]

I've now completed my first subframe drop on the S1 2.0 (following the excellent advice provided) and it wasn't at all difficult. The worst bit for me was undoing the exhaust at the manifold, the bolts had rounded / seized and access was awkward working on the floor. A small air grinder with cut off disc would have sorted it in seconds rather than the half hour it took me with a hacksaw. I would agree with removing the wheelarch liners to stop them getting in the way of the front subframe mounts as you lower and pull it backwards.

You also need to be mindful of the pipe to body clips when choosing where to put the joiner (if using). I nearly ended up with the joiner over the clip but fortunately it cleared once the pipes were pushed back into place.

If you are still looking for a pipe flaring tool I believe member Martybiff has one for sale. I'm not sure if he has the 4.5mm or just the 3.5mm version but he still had it / them last week.

[Citjon]

I found this post by citroenxm was really helpful:

(Edit - well it would be if the photo's showed up! Anyone know how to fix this?)

To day I decided to get the hydraulics up and running after finding a split in a pipe at the rear.

I decided that it will be worth while removeing the whole subframe and checking all the pipes.

Supported..

20131114_102146.jpg
20131114_103912.jpg
20131114_104504.jpg

The first thing is to remove the wheel carrier, and the exhaust back section...

20131114_103912.jpg

Nice clear space to work in and around now..

Take support of the subframe with two helpers....

20131114_104504.jpg

Leading frame bolt...1 each side


20131114_104556.jpg

rear frame bolt..(just behind the lip)

20131114_104605.jpg

So, undo the four bolts and then lower the frame SLOWLY, because theres a few things to look out for.. The ABS cableing comes to the subframe on the drivers side, theres also a breather on that side, that needs pulling out, the ABS needs unplugging, then as its lowered the Height selector rod needs removing from the guide plate, this also can only do done in this situation by selecting Low setting and then as the frame is lowered pulled BACKWARDS to aid clearing the rod...

Dont worry about the pipes they lower with the frame safely..

20131114_111643.jpg

Theres four pipes to disconnect from the frame, OR break off if they are corroded...

One to the nearside rear strut feed pipe, one to a K joint for suspesnion, one to the K joint for brakes (4.5mm pipe) and one to the Height corrector. Theres a leak off return joint to pull apart too..


Centre sphere and hydractive block...

20131114_111951.jpg

TOP priority to check the electro valve for potential leakage... removed it from the block..

20131114_121359.jpg

A slight bit of early corrosion, but cleaned it up and re fitted it. Im happy with the condition, need to apply some protection.

As you can see the electro valve is slight better protected then on the Xantia.

Having a replacement frame sitting under the covers, I pulled that one out.. I found that there was a few pipes a bit dodgy and needing replaceing.. The replacment had a few Kuprel Nickel pipes on it, and was ALSO a frame from an Anti Sink Late car.

So, after removing the anti sink valve and rear brake reserve sphere and returning the frame to a Sinker Frame, theres also one difference. The near side rear feed pipe on Anti Sink cars does NOT have a return feed pipe of 3.5mm on it! One to note for later cars.

20131114_122536.jpg

Anti sink pipe on the right, sinker pipe on the left. HOWEVER, if fitting a sinker pipe on an anti sinker, then the return pipe feed off can easyilly have a 12mm nut screwed into it...

After lots of repipeing, theres only TWO small pipes that are old style, and the 4.5mm brake feed pipe and the caliper feed pipes are old pipe too, but ALL in good order and not gonna fail any time soon.

Frame rebuilt, and refitted to the car by close of day light. I just need to join the 4.5mm brake feed pipe under the car tomorrow.

[citroenxm]

I dont think they do on a quote.. only on an original post.

[citroenxm]

I found this post by citroenxm was really helpful:

(Edit - well it would be if the photo's showed up! Anyone know how to fix this?)

To day I decided to get the hydraulics up and running after finding a split in a pipe at the rear.

I decided that it will be worth while removeing the whole subframe and checking all the pipes.

Supported..

20131114_102146.jpg
20131114_103912.jpg
20131114_104504.jpg

The first thing is to remove the wheel carrier, and the exhaust back section...

20131114_103912.jpg

Nice clear space to work in and around now..

Take support of the subframe with two helpers....

20131114_104504.jpg

Leading frame bolt...1 each side


20131114_104556.jpg

rear frame bolt..(just behind the lip)

20131114_104605.jpg

So, undo the four bolts and then lower the frame SLOWLY, because theres a few things to look out for.. The ABS cableing comes to the subframe on the drivers side, theres also a breather on that side, that needs pulling out, the ABS needs unplugging, then as its lowered the Height selector rod needs removing from the guide plate, this also can only do done in this situation by selecting Low setting and then as the frame is lowered pulled BACKWARDS to aid clearing the rod...

Dont worry about the pipes they lower with the frame safely..

20131114_111643.jpg

Theres four pipes to disconnect from the frame, OR break off if they are corroded...

One to the nearside rear strut feed pipe, one to a K joint for suspesnion, one to the K joint for brakes (4.5mm pipe) and one to the Height corrector. Theres a leak off return joint to pull apart too..


Centre sphere and hydractive block...

20131114_111951.jpg

TOP priority to check the electro valve for potential leakage... removed it from the block..

20131114_121359.jpg

A slight bit of early corrosion, but cleaned it up and re fitted it. Im happy with the condition, need to apply some protection.

As you can see the electro valve is slight better protected then on the Xantia.

Having a replacement frame sitting under the covers, I pulled that one out.. I found that there was a few pipes a bit dodgy and needing replaceing.. The replacment had a few Kuprel Nickel pipes on it, and was ALSO a frame from an Anti Sink Late car.

So, after removing the anti sink valve and rear brake reserve sphere and returning the frame to a Sinker Frame, theres also one difference. The near side rear feed pipe on Anti Sink cars does NOT have a return feed pipe of 3.5mm on it! One to note for later cars.

20131114_122536.jpg

Anti sink pipe on the right, sinker pipe on the left. HOWEVER, if fitting a sinker pipe on an anti sinker, then the return pipe feed off can easyilly have a 12mm nut screwed into it...

After lots of repipeing, theres only TWO small pipes that are old style, and the 4.5mm brake feed pipe and the caliper feed pipes are old pipe too, but ALL in good order and not gonna fail any time soon.

Frame rebuilt, and refitted to the car by close of day light. I just need to join the 4.5mm brake feed pipe under the car tomorrow.

John. Where is this post located.. ill have a look at the original and see if I still have the pics hosted or not somewhere

[xantia_v6]

I dont think they do on a quote.. only on an original post.

Phpbb does not do it by default, but there is an extension module which we use on FCF that works quite well.

[Citjon]

The photos are fortunately still on the original post, I have sent you a screenshot of the page.

[citroenxm]

Yes John got it.

[citroenxm]

Heres a link directly to the page with the pics on it.

https://club-xm.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=40

[dcz1643]

I've now completed my first subframe drop on the S1 2.0 (following the excellent advice provided) and it wasn't at all difficult. The worst bit for me was undoing the exhaust at the manifold, the bolts had rounded / seized and access was awkward working on the floor. A small air grinder with cut off disc would have sorted it in seconds rather than the half hour it took me with a hacksaw. I would agree with removing the wheelarch liners to stop them getting in the way of the front subframe mounts as you lower and pull it backwards.

You also need to be mindful of the pipe to body clips when choosing where to put the joiner (if using). I nearly ended up with the joiner over the clip but fortunately it cleared once the pipes were pushed back into place.

If you are still looking for a pipe flaring tool I believe member Martybiff has one for sale. I'm not sure if he has the 4.5mm or just the 3.5mm version but he still had it / them last week.

Thanks for this, it’s very useful…Derek

[dcz1643]

Heres a link directly to the page with the pics on it.

https://club-xm.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.p ... 4&start=40

Fantastic help, thank you very much