Citroen XM Forum

first my passenger side was found to have completely failed while at pleides who sourced and fitted a good one
now my drivers side has failed the two parts separating entirely one rattling about inside the other this is the same failure type on both sides

needles to say i need another
however with all the different types im not sure which i have and going off year is not garenteed as at some point in the past this same drivers side had suffered a full 'punch through' failure and i have no idea if everything was replaced with the correct parts or not

i seem to remember reading there is different amounts of dots to determine which type it is
mine has 6
or am i getting confused here with reliant gearboxes which ARE distinguished from a number of dots on the rear and the dots have no bearing on which strut top i have

i did take some photos unfortunately the camera on this phone is damaged and were nowhere near clear enough

There are three types of hydractive strut tops.

Very early ones, straight sides to the upper casting and four spreading punchings to the lower tube.

Later 16mm holed ones, stepped upper casting, 10 punchings.

Later still, 18mm hole, stepped casting, 10 punchings.

Measure the diameter of the threaded section of strut to ascertain which you have.

What has happened is the steel on the underside of the plate has corroded, thus the rubber to steel bond has failed due to the surface of the steel coming away.
The surface corrosion is only a few microns thick, but the oxide has parted company with the rest of the surface.

Theoretically, as long as the rubber isn't torn the steel and rubber could be cleaned up and abraded, then re-bonded.

The diameter to measure is the top hole in the strut top, which isn't itself threaded. It's the top end of the securing taper.
It's the tip of the strut rod that is threaded (where the nut goes).
Be sure to specify car-left or car-right when ordering replacement tops, as they are 'handed'.

Will,
Do we have any confirmation that re-bonding of untorn rubber to the existing steel is effective and durable?
Who is offering this as a service?

One last thing to note is whether the the projection underneath is long, or short skirt, which is pretty obvious when you look at them.

I think only later, 18mm holed types have longer skirts, both 16mm types are short skirted.

The length of skirt is just for the gaiter to clip onto, so not imperative.

As far as rebonding, no-one offers it as a service, but some members have performed this to their own.
The issue is finding a suitable bonding agent, windscreen Pu adhesive has been used, but I believe a solvent rubber cement might work better.

I have measured the top hole at 16mm so this must be the common type with the short skirt
Is this correct

Torn rubber...there's no saving that other than a rebuild.

It looks like a 16mm strut and short skirt, to me.

sageman wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 29, 2021 5:44 pm

I have measured the top hole at 16mm so this must be the common type with the short skirt
Is this correct

Are you looking for a replacement top. I've a number in my shed with various piston sizes. I'd need an overhead view of the top to compare.

citroenxm wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 30, 2021 5:28 pm

sageman wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 29, 2021 5:44 pm

I have measured the top hole at 16mm so this must be the common type with the short skirt
Is this correct

Are you looking for a replacement top. I've a number in my shed with various piston sizes. I'd need an overhead view of the top to compare.

Sageman has measured the top hole at 16 mm, so small hole.

It's right side, so the sphere connector is facing the left of centre compared to the plate, when viewed from above.

Can anybody help with this please

I am still in need of one..