2 * 2.1 SD

[Julianw]

If you have dormant cars, keep the batteries charged, otherwise they will go dead cell, necessitating replacement.

And with the propensity of modernz for parasitic drain, even disconnecting the battery is better than doing nothing. I have a (very useful) Chrysler Grand Voyager that loves to kill its battery over a few weeks of no use. And when the battery starts to get low, the infinite wisdom* of GM design guarantees both to completely kill the battery AND invite all sorts of security issues. How?

By randomly opening and closing the power tailgate, until the battery is dead. Ask me how I know...

[Dieselman]

Being disappointed that the engine still dripped oil when running I am having another go at sealing it. Last year I removed the gearbox and flywheel and installed a new crankshaft oil seal.
Having already fitted a new sump gasket a few years ago I don't think the leak is from there and believe it is the two upright rubber seals on the sides of the No.1 main bearing cap are leaking.
This engine uses a slightly strange arrangement where the No.1 main bearing cap (flywheel end) forms part of the cylinder block, so as well as the usual circular crankshaft seal there are a pair of rubber seals running vertically.
Unfortunately, to successfully remove and re-install the bearing cap means removal of the flywheel, sump and replacing crankshaft oil seal again.

I also noticed an Lhm leak from the return to reservoir pipe.

I've jacked up the front of the car and placed it on axle stands and used my rear suspension blockers to keep the rear of the car raised, for stability and working space.

Home made suspension blocker.

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It's awkward to insert the right side one as the fuel filler pipe is in the way, but it can be fed in. Raise the car to Maximum setting and post the tool in.
It would be easier with the wheel off as the arch liner could be pulled out of the way more.

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They work by jamming the suspension arm in a higher position.

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With both in position the rear of the car rests like:

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Lhm leak at the joint between steel and rubber pipes. First look shows there may be a split in the rubber pipe, just above the Ligarex band.

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Drain engine and gearbox oil, remove the battery, Lhm filter unit and reservoir, the turbo boost transducer, then lift the body to engine wiring connectors out of the holder and unbolt the holder at the rear of the battery tray. This is the third bolt on the battery tray that is awkward to access with the Lhm reservoir in place.
Unbolt the Gnd strap and Lhm pipe retainer bracket from the top of the gearbox.

Remove the turbo to intercooler pipe and to avoid damaging them, the TDC sensor and speedometer drive cable.

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Disconnect the gear linkages by prying the ball joints apart, undo the L shaped retainer bolts holding the Rh driveshaft intermediate bearing, the lower suspension ball joints, driveshaft nuts etc and remove the drivehafts.

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To make space I jam the hub out with a wood prop.

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TBC...